[REPU] New Board Post: my thoughts on rust prevention...oh, a bit long....

From: Daemon user for apache (wwwrun@rotor.mazzella.org)
Date: Mon Jan 20 2003 - 17:23:42 PST


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A New Post has Been with the Subject: [my thoughts on rust prevention...oh, a bit long....]
User From: nwaco
The Reply was:

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More from the "Thick black mat thread...

I believe the best method to use for protecting against rust and corrosion depends on the level of disassembly one is willing to undertake. Acceptable access is the
real issue. Since many a truck are operational, taking out wire runs, brake tubing, engines exhaust, etc., is not a reasonable expectation or desire. But, with that said,
treating accessible areas while leaving inaccessible areas to continue to deteriorate makes no sense. So.. We must approach the issue by assuming one is willing to
obtain access. If so, here is a process I believe (in my experience anyway) one must embark upon..

1. Clean the area of all dirt, debris, and loose rust. Dirt and debris left against a metal surface is a excellent incubator for rust to begin. This can be accomplished
by virtue of pressure washing, media blasting, wire brush or wheel....whatever. This is the labor part.

2. Clean chemically the area as in solvent wash or rinse.

3. Verify no loose rust pieces are present or trapped between surfaces.

4. Ensure entire area is dry through, and use a penetrating type rust converter on all the seams ensuring that it is soaked up into the seams until they don't or won't hold any more and wipe up excess converter. Follow instructions on container as each product may have different process steps. I personally like SEM Rust-mort because its viscosity is that which allows it to "wick" into a seam by capillary action and convert the rust between surfaces. Products like POR-15, while excellent at converting open surfaces and sealing them against moisture penetration, are very poor at "wicking" into seams. They are great at covering and converting large open
areas.

5. I then use POR-15 on open areas.

6. Depending on whether area worked is interior or exterior, apply a topcoat as final barrier against moisture. Inside I use a quality epoxy primer and outside(bottom areas only) I use the same covered by Marine "below the waterline" epoxy enamel. I use it, because it is cheaper and of usually higher quality than auto paints and it is made to withstand the scraping off of barnacles. Show me an auto paint that can take that. The exterior body proper gets a standard auto paint scheme.

7. Apply a corrosion protection compound to exterior bottom. I use aircraft products available at Aircraft Spruce. They shed moisture and can be readily re-applied to continue protection.

8. Last and most of all not least is periodic inspection to touch up any chips or dings as they are the seeds of future problems

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