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Thread: So, it is time to lower the 77..............
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nwaco
Redlining
Posts: 407
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posted September 28, 2004 11:15 PM |
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So, it is time to lower the 77..............
the frame is just about complete, and the cab is almost complete (bottom, engine bay and wheelwells). I'll be installing the rest of the suspension later this week and I now have to decide if I will lower it. I'm pretty much sure I do want it lowered, but the 77 has different springs to match the different lower control arms. I assume my only feasable option is to cut springs, but since the 77 has different springs than the other years (I want to save them), I think I would cut a set of 74's and install them in the 77 control arms. I guess I then put a set of blocks in the back. This is the first vehicle I have lowered so I will be getting some new experience here. I looked through the past posts, and we don't seem to have a set of spindles available, so cutting seems the way to go.
Here are the questions, how much to lower it and get good hadling and tire wear? I am thinking about 2 inches. Am I going about the best way to lower (cut springs and blocks)? And finally, Anything else I need to know while I have this beast apart at this stage?
I am antsy to get it back together, hopefully before the end of October....
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted September 29, 2004 10:51 AM |
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I'm no expert, but...
...the 'best' amount to lower will be determined by a number of factors, including, naturally, your choice of wheel/tires, other suspension components, driving style, and desired outcome.
Some have suggested that lowering more in the rear than the front might actually provide better handling...
Also, Racing Beat has had some good general tips to offer regarding chassis setup and cornering power. Not REPU-specific, but valuable nonetheless!
Without getting too radical, we are stuck with blocks in the rear... I bought a set 'back when' that are angled on one side to properly adapt the pmpkin/driveshaft angle...
You may want to remove the overload leaf, or not... and/or otherwise modify the leaf springs.
I'd drop the front 1-2", and the rear 2-3"--based on the fact that most seem to ride higher in the rear to begin with.
Maximum cornering power doesn't come from eliminating all body roll...
I'll bet Brad has some good ideas...! :)
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted September 29, 2004 11:05 AM |
Edited By: brad on 29 Sep 2004 11:08
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Slammin' the REPU
Klaus has very good info above. Bigger sway bars front and rear will help out too. I saw at SS7 that ADDCO has a rear sway bar kit for REPU. Looked good. It was in the green turbo REPU.
Remember that when you reduce body roll, the suspension is not absorbing as much lateral loads. So you are moving the lateral load from the suspension to the tires. So you better have good wide, stiff sidewalled and preferably soft compounded tires to absorb the lateral load otherwise you'll just squeal and tire slip around corners which is slower.
From what I've read the 77 front springs are stiffer than 74-76 so I would cut the pre77 that way it won't be TOO stiff. Cutting springs makes them stiffer FYI.
As for the rear, ghetto blocks are very common but I had some datsun 520/620 truck buddies in high school who used to remove all of the leafs except two. The longest one with bushing mounts for obvious reasons and the main. And they flip the main to the top. Lowered it pretty good. But carrying capacity was decreased.
Fewer leafs = less spring rate = more drop.
Don't recall why they flipped the main to top but at the time they all agreed it is a good idea. :)
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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3rdshiftkustoms
1st Gear
Posts: 25
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posted December 04, 2004 02:16 PM |
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in the rear if you do not want to use a lowering block you can always have the springs de arched some at a spring shop.
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Ricky
3rdshiftkustoms@sbcglobal.net
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dpassmore
Hauling
Posts: 104
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posted December 05, 2004 10:35 AM |
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I think I cut one coil out of the frt springs.My rear is all fabricated.
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If someone with a split personality threatens suicide,is it a hostage situation?
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nwaco
Redlining
Posts: 407
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posted December 14, 2004 11:53 AM |
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I'm done with frame and suspension.....
so I hope to load cab this week sometime. It's getting exciting around here......
Just itching to finish it.
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted December 14, 2004 06:23 PM |
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damn nwaco, that looks fantastic! what isn't new on that front end? beautiful paint, what paint system did you use?
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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ovquick
Redlining
Posts: 253
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posted December 14, 2004 06:54 PM |
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The frame
Damm that looks fantastic is right!!
Sure would like to see some more pics before you cover it up.
____________
Manteca Mazda Asylum
where a boy and his cat live, without adult supervision
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nwaco
Redlining
Posts: 407
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posted December 14, 2004 08:58 PM |
Edited By: nwaco on 15 Dec 2004 00:06
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I used a four part system....
beadblast strip the parts, solvent clean, phosphoric acid etch, PPG zinc chromate epoxy primer, and polyurethane enamel.
I spent the last 6 months cleaning and painting parts. Bad news is it is a hell of a lot of work. Good news is I did enough parts for at least two trucks, and in some cases three trucks. That is less the frames, I only have two of those done.
My camera is not good enough and my shop is too dark for nice pics, but here are a few more to help get better visual. Also, disregard the header, I was just using this one for measurement, and I forgot to remove it for the pic.
Here is the engine bay earlier today before I primed which I just now completed.
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted December 15, 2004 11:33 AM |
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...and from envy back to Admiration!
HOT DAMN!!! You 'da man', Ken! I am humbled to know you. Seriously, Mike needs to see these pics himself, then maybe he'll know I was correct in my assessment of just exactly why you're about the only person I 'know' who 'should' get to complete his three.
I think I understand now why Neal is dreaming about being able to purchase a quality restoration...
Are we dreaming, Ken? Or, what are the odds one of your beautiful labors of love will *ever* become 'available' at a price lowly working-class fanatics can pay, if at all?
How soon can I start being your apprentice?
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nwaco
Redlining
Posts: 407
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posted December 15, 2004 02:12 PM |
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Thanks, all....................
I usually refrain from posting pictures of my progress, or at times, lack theroff, but after powering through the long, and I do mean LOOOONG, painful process of systematically refinishing a gazillion parts, things are begining to show signs of movement.
My wife still sort of rolls-her-eyes at my hobby, and my 6-year-old daughter thinks they are still (in her words) "crusty and all chewed up trucks", but alas, They are troopers and let me do my thing.
Trust me, I have no special restoration talents, except for a willingness to use "working on my truck" as an excuse for dinking beer and listening to the radio. This hobby keeps me at home and is a pleasure to boot. I just try to add a bit of value to the process each day or week. I set very small goals, that are easy to meet. They all add up. I told you all a while back, my process does parts in multiples, so that as I power through any process, doing two or three sets is just as painful and boring as doing one, so what the hell, get it done.
Besides, be it known that I couldn't in good conscience, publish a picture of my daily driver with the rust-through air conditioning system. IThey look somewhat like the two that I am scrapping. I am coming more and more to appreciating the freedom I have of a "beater" to drive.
I can't see a time when I will choose to sell off one of my rebuilt trucks, but you never really know. I am beginning to think that I might be afraid to get this thing dirty....and that will somewhat defeat my purpose.
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brett
Newbie
Posts: 4
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posted December 16, 2004 02:24 PM |
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low is the go Irecently aquired a 75 non rotary B1600 not know ing such things as REPU,s existed and now after 5mins on the net I think if found my next project. Can anyone assist Ill need a grill/badges/measurements for side stripes and...Q:was the lettering on the tailgate embossed on the steelwork or simply a sticker? if embossed Im gonna need a tailgate to can anyone help!
contact Brett at thenakedgardener@aapt.net.com
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted December 16, 2004 04:58 PM |
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Welcome, Brett...
Are you referring to creating a pseudo-REPU clone? If so, good luck... they're different from the B-series in ways other than appearance. Or, have you accquired a new project, and now need those bits?
Juan at vintagerotarydecals.com makes some nice repro stripes, for those with a budget...
Welcome to the forum!
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dhood
Hauling
Posts: 134
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posted February 15, 2005 09:22 PM |
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By cutting off one coil, how much drop did you get from that? Could you still use stock shocks, or have to order a special size?
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rotarydragon7
Newbie
Posts: 6
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posted February 16, 2005 08:28 AM |
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quote:
By cutting off one coil, how much drop did you get from that? Could you still use stock shocks, or have to order a special size?
Thank you dhood. I'm wondering the same thing. If anyone has cut exactly one coil and measured the drop please post it here. This will give us all a good idea of how much to cut out but going a little shy as it's somewhat tough to find new springs. Thus eliminating the old trial and ERROR method ;-) Ditto the shock after cutting question.
____________
S5 91 N/A White, 75 REPU White, Past - S4 TII Red
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted February 16, 2005 10:08 AM |
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Perhaps I can help...
I'd have to go out and measure, but I still have in my possesion a set of already-cut springs, the uninstalled length of which could be compared to the un-cut stock springs... then I could ask my friend again, who ran 'em in his Courier 'back when', just how much the drop was... (I seem to recall 2" or a bit less).
As for the shocks, again, I'll have to collect the data/numbers, but 'back when' I purchased a set of Tockico gas-a-justs to accommodate a 2" drop in front, and a 3" drop rear. I seem to remember one 'could' simply use the stock spec shocks and get away with it, but if you really want to insure optimum travel in both directions, it's best to take all mod's into account... Funny thing being that I've run that set on a stock, un-lowered REPU for some years... with no problems.
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nwaco
Redlining
Posts: 407
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posted February 16, 2005 11:08 AM |
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From my limited understanding of this issue....
I was led to believe that 1" cut from a front spring is worth about 2" of drop. I have read many a time that while the springs are shorter and provide double drop for what is cut, that they are much stiffer to boot.
I have not been able to effectively measure the drop as I cut 74 springs and installed on 77 frame. Since I only had one set of 77 springs, I chose not to cut them. I have several spare 74 sets.
I cut one coil off and measured it to just abouty 3/4", but since the spring didn't come from a 77, it doesn't have the same flattened taper to the last coil end as the 77 did, and thus appears a bit taller overall than the same amount cut from a 77. (if that makes any sense)
I figured I'd start out low and work from there. I can always cut more off easier than add some on.
The truck is not finished yet, but I put 3" blocks under rear to lower.
I mounted the fenders the other day, and it sure didn't look that much different than what I remember, but I stll have a bit of weight to add.
I'll let you all know when I finish.
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted February 17, 2005 08:48 AM |
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Does anyone know
If courier or b1600 front springs are softer or stiffer than REPU? Just looking @ other possibilities.
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted February 17, 2005 09:04 AM |
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Unknown, however...
...it would seem reasonable that they are at least very similar. The cut springs in question in my posession were indeed Courier units... that appear identical. Good question! Good thing, too, that cutting a coil firms 'em up, regardless...
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