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Thread: Wanted: Stock front springs
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mazdarx605
Redlining
Posts: 314
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posted July 17, 2007 04:50 PM |
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Wanted: Stock front springs
Just like the subject line says,I am looking for a set of stock front coil springs.I have cut springs(previous owner?),and I would like to raise the truck back to factory height because it seems the cut springs are making the steering geometry wrong,and the alignment is out of whack.I figure the rear is just lowering blocks which I can remove,and raise the rear,but I need uncut springs for the front.Thanks in advance.
Chris
74 REPU
79 RX-7 GS
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted July 17, 2007 09:15 PM |
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none for sale here but free advice
If the lower control arms point upwards then the suspension geometry is all outta whack. And it handles poorly at that height. More positive camber, less positive caster and toe all shot at 3/8" in. The tie rods would be pointing upwards too which is bad.
If you can raise it to where the LCA's are parallel with ground then it handles better. For alignment all I did was remove all shims, crank all the positive camber I could into the upper control arms (turn their adjusters at either end so the UCA moves rearward) then had a shop set toe to 1/16" in. DONE.
At last auto-x I was only one second slower then 3 Miata. Just trying to help keep u low.
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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Hunter
Hauling
Posts: 178
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posted July 18, 2007 06:12 AM |
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front springs
have a used pair off a Mazda B1600 I believe.
If interested, what is your offer ?
Bruce Toski
954 583-4191
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mazdarx605
Redlining
Posts: 314
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posted July 19, 2007 04:00 PM |
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Thanks Brad,and Bruce for the replies so far.I have no idea what to offer for the springs Bruce.
Brad,
I would like to keep it low,but the truck is horribly aligned,and I am worried it is hurting the other suspension parts.The inside of both front wheels is worn down to nothing,and the outsides are in pretty good shape aside from deep cracking from age.Is it possible to keep it low,and not hurt things while keeping an alignment that won't burn through tires?Any help is appreciated.
Chris
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted July 19, 2007 06:54 PM |
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Yea it is. Inside edge tire wear is either from too much negative camber which is impossible on these trucks as Max is roughly 1.5* negative. Unless you shorten the upper a-arms. Or from too much toe-in which is more likely because when I lowered my REPU my toe-in went to 3/8"!!! spec is 1/8-1/4 but 1/4 is a hell of a lot. I think MAZDA wanted it toed in to couter the oversteer from stiff rear springs necessary for 1400lb payload.
I had a shop set mine to 1/16" toe-in and the tires are wearing nicely. Even after the last autocross there is not any abnormal wear.
As for bad alignment hurting other parts, if it was WAY low as in bottoming out the front shocks it could also max out the balljoint movement. MOOG sells everything you need for a new front end job except the center steering link. Made the truck feel almost new except for that balljoint in centerlink is still used and the steering box has no more adjustment. Not cheap but top of the line, state of the art stuff that's re-greasable.
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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mazdarx605
Redlining
Posts: 314
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posted July 19, 2007 07:21 PM |
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Thanks Brad,
I appreciate your help here.I was noticing the other day that when I turn the wheel in either direction to its stop that just before I get to the stop the suspension makes a clunking noise,and the wheel feels funny when this happens. I think the whole front end is screwed up,but I have no idea where to start.Would it be wise to spend this money on the Moog stuff,and get it aligned,and have the possible toe-in fixed,or should I just get the thing aligned,and see what needs to be replaced from there?I like the stance of the truck,but the tires are wearing badly,and I have my doubts about how well the drop was done in the front.Here is a link to my site that shows how low the truck is.
http://web.mac.com/cdirado/iWeb/Diradosite/74%20REPU.html
Thanks again,
Chris
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted July 20, 2007 09:57 AM |
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sweet truck
it's not in the dirt, should steer and handle properly. if it were me, I'd take the front wheels off, get out the torque wrench and tighten everything up there to factory specs. Especially where the control arms bolt to the frame (lowers have castle nuts and cotter pins). Then grease all the fittings and go for test drive. Then alignment shop.
The truck did not come with zerk fittings, instead there are threaded plugs in all of the balljoints and upper a-arm bushings that need to be removed and zerks threaded in.
Since the truck is 33 years old, chances are some if not all of the front end bushings and balljoints need replacing anyways.
Oh, and it may be the idle arm bushings; they're plastic and close to the hot headers = brittle snap!
Does the steering wheel return to center when you let go of it when exiting a turn? That's positive caster.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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