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Index > Engine/Drivetrain > Thread: Repu wont start...
Thread: Repu wont start...
repu1977


1st Gear
Posts: 47
posted October 09, 2005 06:46 PM

Repu wont start...

Does anyone have any ideas???

I re-adjusted my 77's timing last night after finding that my old timing light was flunky (it would flash without being connected to a spark plug wire).
So, I got this awesome power and a smooth idle for the first time in the 3 or so months that I have owned this truck.

I drove it around quite a bit(sufficiently warmed up)and parked it in the garage last night (since it was such a nice truck that day I thought I'd give her a treat:-) )

This morning I got back in her, turned the key and nothing!!!

All the buzzers are going off, the warning lights are lit...radio plays...but not even a click in the starter solenoid.

So I thought...solenoid, right...and put a remote starter switch doohicky on the solenoid and turned over the motor that way...but now I have the motor turning via the starter, but the car won't start.

I noticed there are two relays in the engine bay marked "ignition relay" one on the left wall and one on the right wall...but there's a few more too...

Do ya think it's a relay issue or is there something I'm missing???
____________
77 REPU "Yellow"
82 380SL
93 f250 4X4 turbo Diesel
66 Benelli
94 740 IL

       
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roaddancer


Hauling
Posts: 127
posted October 10, 2005 12:01 AM

If you bypass the ignition switch, you may not be getting the voltage upgrade from the circuit that bypasses the ignition resistor. Normally, this runs the 9v coil at 12v for a hotter spark to start. Good luck!
____________
formerly
rx2/3/4/cosmo,repu,94 rx7,

       
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klaus42


Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
posted October 10, 2005 11:58 AM

I'll bet what's going on...

...is your vintage ignition switch itself is getting 'flakey' inside. Wouldn't be the first time... Happened to me that I had to hold the switch in an 'in-between' position, to achieve starter action, folowed by ignition... as the 'run' position crapped out. Might wanna check all connections, fuses, etc. as well, for cleanliness and connectivity... Did your wires at the back of the switch get hot???

Short of direct diagnosis/replacement, try getting your hands on a little can of 'De-Ox-It', under the brand name 'Caig' or 'Cramoline', sold only at electronics supply/repair speciality shops... the TINIEST bit of this stuff does miracle work on all electrical connects that can be salvaged!


       
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repu1977


1st Gear
Posts: 47
posted October 10, 2005 08:30 PM
Edited By: repu1977 on 10 Oct 2005 20:31

The saga continues...

>> Did your wires at the back of the switch get hot???

no they don't...a little bit about the switch later..


>>Short of direct diagnosis/replacement, try getting your >>hands on a little can of 'De-Ox-It', under the brand name >>'Caig' or 'Cramoline', sold only at electronics >>supply/repair speciality shops... the TINIEST bit of this >>stuff does miracle work on all electrical connects that can >>be salvaged!

I found De-Ox-It at radioshack of all places...$15.00 for a tiny spray can that ran out after a few connections...but that stuff was awesome!!

The saga continues...

I solved the "won't activate the starter" gimic.
While looking for connections to spray with De-Ox-It under the dash. I found 2 in-line fuses on wires dirrectly before they ran into the ECU unit...one was blown. I replaced it :)

Suddenly the truck starter started to turn...

but that's not all...it now starts but when I release the key from start to run position, the engine dies.

I thought ignition swithch now...for sure.
So I removed the whole assy and rebuilt it. Just a little carbon build-up in it nothing to out ouf the ordinary...still will start but I have to hold the key in the start position to get it to stay running.

Now I'm thinking it's got to be a relay? right??
maybe "roaddancer" has a point here...it's only running if it has the higher voltage giong to the coils now...hmm

P.S. I also found two in line fuses in the ignition wireing harness but they are OK.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts...KEEP THEM COMING!!!


____________
77 REPU "Yellow"
82 380SL
93 f250 4X4 turbo Diesel
66 Benelli
94 740 IL

       
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repu1977


1st Gear
Posts: 47
posted October 10, 2005 08:33 PM

By the way...does anyone have a copy of the "starting and charging system" wireing diagram?

I have the Mazda shop manual, 3 chiltons, and a hayes manual and all 5 tell me to refer to it but don't have it?!!

Thanks again!!

       
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jfaplanet


Redlining
Posts: 356
posted October 10, 2005 09:02 PM

Email

Shoot me your email address and I'll send you a PDF file I have of the 77 wiring diag. Maybe it will help, Its worth a shot. I had trouble with the 74 about a year ago. Turns out it was a loose connection on the fuse block. Took me a week to find it. Cleaned all connections and when I moved one wire it would die. Tightend it and all clear. Put a Internal regulated Altenator off of a 85 GSL-SE on it tonight and that helped a bunch. Good luck.

Charles

74repu@bellsouth.net
____________
74 REPU "Red"
74 REPU "Jethro" "TII"
74 RE-Courier vert
79 SA-SE(aka deathtrap)
79 SA-SE-FC (project
turbo)
http://home.bellsouth.net
/p/PWP-crgj
TN Forum:
http://tnrotary.10.forume
r.com/

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klaus42


Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
posted October 11, 2005 09:46 AM

"ECU" ?

...now you've lost me... unless you're running non-stock, or the '77 has something I'm unfamiliar with...?

If the can ran out after a couple'a connects, you either got gypped (not unexpected from RS ?), and/or you actually sprayed with it, instead of using the minimum required to get the desired effect (a mere *dab* will do ya, no kidding!)...

I still think it could very well be your switch itself, despite your rebuilding it... no offense, but I don't have a high opinion of these ignition switches' durability...!

Nice that you found those fuses, and got some connections cleaned!

       
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repu1977


1st Gear
Posts: 47
posted October 11, 2005 08:22 PM
Edited By: repu1977 on 11 Oct 2005 20:22

Shoot me your email address and I'll send you a PDF file...

sent yesterday?

Please, please, please...Send the PDF...All I need is that PDF...LOL

It"s blowing two fuses now, all I need is the wireing diag. and I can trace the system in error :)

Please....Please...


I'm beggin' Ya...
____________
77 REPU "Yellow"
82 380SL
93 f250 4X4 turbo Diesel
66 Benelli
94 740 IL

       
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repu1977


1st Gear
Posts: 47
posted October 11, 2005 08:27 PM

...now you've lost me... unless you're running non-stock, or the '77 has something...

Yep, it's got an ECU...Emissions Control Unit...Black box on drivers foot wall.

Acording to the wireing diag. I have (that doesn't have the starting and charging system) every repu from 74-77 has one.

I don't know...ask Chilton...LOL
____________
77 REPU "Yellow"
82 380SL
93 f250 4X4 turbo Diesel
66 Benelli
94 740 IL

       
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repu1977


1st Gear
Posts: 47
posted October 11, 2005 09:45 PM

Just got the pdf...

You (jfaplanet) are a god!!!

I will humbley bow my head and walk away backwards speeking praise and hommange...

Tonight I have been able to narrow it down to the first fuse in the engine compartment fuse block. The BLK-WHT wire...when I I put a fuse in it, my two under dash inline fuses (5A) blow.( one is the choke relay)
It may seem that I have a fettish for relays, (I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow for a good courier ignition switch) but I'm thinkin' that that Kickdown Relay is looking kinda guilty right now...but it could be those ballast resisters...or the ignotion relay all on that same line...

Well back to it tomorrow after work!!

Thanks again jfaplanet!!!

Now I can see...

____________
77 REPU "Yellow"
82 380SL
93 f250 4X4 turbo Diesel
66 Benelli
94 740 IL

       
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repu1977


1st Gear
Posts: 47
posted October 14, 2005 10:42 PM
Edited By: repu1977 on 14 Oct 2005 22:48

well, I finaly fixed the problem...
I did get a courier ignition switch and it was not the problem...though it did look that way.
what it was, is there was a short on the wire going to the carb heater. the wire is on the passenger bottom side of the carb. there are a couple of connecters there but the one that effected me was the dark brown wire, it was rubbed through by the thermal reactor where it looks like it has a internal Diaphragm. The wireing harness at this point was held by a wire clamp (factory) and that clamp pulled the wires down right into the thermal reactor.
So I repaired the break, re-wraped the wires and "adjusted" by force, the wireing path and pulled them to a safe place.

seems what was hapening is the short was in a wire comming off of the black-wht wire (front most position on the main fuse block under the hood). So it was causing a short in the far end of that circuit, the closest weak point between the 15a fuse and the short was the two 5a fuses under the dash that are for the choke heater which also happens to supply the power to the start relay (ignition relay). Thus the no starter activation symtom. And the short it self was dead shorting the run sequence. Thus the won't stay running in run position symtom.


WOW that was a mouthfull...and a B#$%H of a job.

Thanks everyone for your help...and expecially jfaplanet...without your wire diagram...I'd still be in the dark!!!


This weekend she's (77 repu) getting slammed and a whole new fornt suspention from an 80 B2000...weeheeeww!!!!
____________
77 REPU "Yellow"
82 380SL
93 f250 4X4 turbo Diesel
66 Benelli
94 740 IL

       
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sparky


Redlining
Posts: 299
posted October 16, 2005 08:34 AM

Wow, Somebody has a wiring diagram for a 77. Can you email me a copy (PDF). Thanks. BTW, I had the same problem with my 77 REPU. The ignition switch went bad and I bypassed the contacts in the switch for the starter with a toggle switch. Works great now. Thanks, Sparky. email: anderson28@cox.net
____________
'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition

       
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sparky


Redlining
Posts: 299
posted October 16, 2005 12:28 PM

Thanks REPU 77
____________
'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition

       
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Mike_Rudy


1st Gear
Posts: 22
posted November 15, 2005 06:09 PM

could someone also send me the diagrams please, thanks, my email is prudyfam@telus.net

       
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sparky


Redlining
Posts: 299
posted November 16, 2005 06:01 PM

Yor wiring diagrams have been sent, enjoy.
____________
'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition

       
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Mike_Rudy


1st Gear
Posts: 22
posted November 16, 2005 07:50 PM

thanks alot

       
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CARMODMASTER


Newbie
Posts: 2
posted February 09, 2016 03:42 AM

Engine Bay and Fuse Block Wiring

NEED HELP- VIP !!!! Looking for Parts and Upgrades for 1974 REPU with 5 speed swap from '85 RX-7 (very hard to come by). Not to mention finding good OEM parts for the electrical circuits and wiring harnesses.
**** I am looking for a Honest, Reputable "ENGINE-SWAP SUPPLIER" FOR JDM (S4 or S5 series) Turbo Engine+Trans. / HARNESS / ECU / AND ALL TURBO AND INTERCOOLER PLUMBING. I was told that JDM Quality Auto Parts in Canada has sold a lot of engines with ZERO/LOW compression!!!!! Anyone have good supplier info? ****
example link: 13B Twin Turbo Engine & Manual 5 Speed Transmission 93+ (No Warranty): http://www.jdmquality.com/mazda/engine-transmission/13b-twin-turbo-engine-manual-5-speed-transmission-93-no-warranty.html
I am currently trying to resurrect a '74 REPU that was in storage for over 10 years. During that time, it had (2) MSD 6A units and the engine bay wiring destroyed.
I have heard that a Used JDM engine supplier in Dallas, Texas has guaranteed S4 turbo engines and all wiring+ECU for less than $1600, and ships for about $150.
ANY / ALL info is greatly appreciated....
Thanks, Scott Haight / Stewart Performance Ltd. 4340 Whitney Place. Boulder, CO. 80305-6713
____________
Scott Haight

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