A New Post has Been made to the thread [Which distributor to get.]
The Reply was:
Hehe! Yeah, look for an '81-'85 dizzy. They're easy enough to find and even easier to wire up. One note about the REPU is that there are two different wires that feed the points. When the key is in the 'on' position, one wire goes into the ballast resistors and then to the coils and points. The other is on when the key is in the 'start'position. Actually it has two wires; one goes to the starter solenoid, and the other goes to the coils and points and feeds them a full 12V while cranking. The rest of the time while in the on position, the coils and points are only getting like 6 or 9 volts to increase the life of the points.
All of this can be trashed.
All you need to keep are the two wires from both positions of the key and 'Y' them together. You'll know if you botched your wiring job if you turn your key on and the starter cranks the engine imediatly hehe! It should only do that in the start position. Anyway, the point I'm trying to make is to allow the ignition to recieve a full 12V in 'start' and 'on' all the time.
If you really want up to 14V of good alt/batt output, I'd suggest hooking up a relay with a feeder wire from the fat battery wire on the starter solenoid to a + terminal of one of your coils. Switch the relay on and off with your key switch. I've got to do this mod because my key switch wires get hot. Too much resistance and I loose 1V from the alt over to the coils. It's sad that my meter reads around 14.0V at my alt, then 13.1V on all my ignitors and coils. No wonder my wires get so hot! I already have the relay and it's already wired for an electric fan I won't be using anymore. A perfect oppurtunity made better by the fact that I just succesfully tested an ignition with a relay today. Yep, my truck is getting it next.
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