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Thread: Selling one of my projects...
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kansei
Redlining
Wankelized
Posts: 423
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posted January 01, 2007 01:18 PM |
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Selling one of my projects...
I have decided to try and sell one of my projects. I realize I may have the reserve price way higher than anyone here thinks the truck is worth, but I look at it this way- I don't need to sell it, and don't want to, other than I have been asked if I would sell or trade it by four people in just the past month, not to mention three people locally wanting to buy parts off it (bed, cab, hood, A/C, shortblock). I don't have the space to store it anymore, and probably will never get around to properly restoring it now that I have my green truck and all of my NOS parts are going on that one, and I don't want it to become a parts truck or worse yet, just sit here and rot. So, if anyone here is willing to spend a bit extra up front for a really clean, straight, rust free (except lots of surface rust) and nearly complete truck, this is probably the one to start with. To my knowledge, it spent the majority of it's life in Missouri.
Here's the link to my eBay auction:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300066048257
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Neal A.E. Swigert
Greenville, Michigan
1974 REPU Resto Project
1976 808 Wagon
1977 Cosmo
1978 Savanna RX-7 GT
1980 Leather Sport RX-7
1980 Petty Targa RX-7 #11
1985 GSL-SE RX-7
1988 RX-7 10th Ann
1993 RX-7 VR Touring
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kansei
Redlining
Wankelized
Posts: 423
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posted January 11, 2007 02:05 PM |
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Still have it...
... and have it posted elsewhere as well. $1600. I thought there were a bunch of people wanting a REPU... or is it that several people want a REPU as long as it runs, shines up nice and is only $100?
Anyone want this one or should I drag her out back?
Neal.
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woooody
1st Gear
Posts: 25
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posted January 11, 2007 02:33 PM |
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I would say that for 1600, most people would expect a "california" conditioned vehicle. That Michigan rust is a bear.
For those in the midwest, they may be willing to start with that rusty of a project. You at least have 18 bids on it.
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kansei
Redlining
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Posts: 423
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posted January 11, 2007 02:57 PM |
 Edited By: kansei on 11 Jan 2007 14:59 |
Well....
...I tried to show in the auction description that the rust everyone saw isn't what everyone thought. It is where the original paint has flaked off over the years, and the metal underneath has "flashed" over- mere surface rust. However, I suppose I do understand the psychological impact the visual may have. And I also stated it is not a Michigan truck- it is from Missouri which does not see the salt on the roads we do here (to my knowledge). I also did not realize that a "completely" rust free truck from California would sell as low as $1600. The cheapest I could find a runner for when I went looking for my green truck was the red truck in Chicago that needed a paint job and had a 12A in it for $3k. Not to sound rude, but it seems to me everyone values these trucks at next to nothing when they want to buy one, but when they go to sell one of theirs, they're suddenly worth several grand. Apparently these trucks really aren't worth much of anything, at least not when they're not running and have surface rust like mine, contrary to what I thought. I'll just drag her out back and use it for parts.
Dan- go ahead and shut this thread down or just delete it completely.
Neal.
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted January 11, 2007 04:36 PM |
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Ebay and the web in general...
...can cut either way on the 'value' of an item, IMHO...
And, that kind of rust certainly isn't a midwest-only sort of thing! I've seen that around these parts, too.
Don't be too disappointed, Neal. Your buyer is likely 'out there' somewhere, not to far away from you... but probably unawares of much on-line, and perhaps not up for spending more than, perhaps, just under $1,000.00 for a project -- IMHO.
Sad but true, it seems: Parts are worth more than complete projects.
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repumax
Redlining
Posts: 427
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posted January 11, 2007 05:15 PM |
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Patience, patience...
....If you don't need the money that bad just hang on to it and you'll eventually get what you want. It just takes the right person at the right time. It took me 6 months to sell my yellow 75' after I bought Craigs truck.I got what I wanted for it. Unfortunately alot of the lowballers are guys that have just discovered (mazda made a rotary truck!) and want one not appreciating what they are and what they are worth. Just my 2cents and good luck Neal.
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1974 Mazda Repu
1986 Yamaha RZ 500
1988 Yamaha YSR 50
1991 Suzuki RGV 250
1992 Yamaha TZR 250 SP
1996 Aprilia RS 250
2003 Ford F-450 6.0 Diesel
2004 Mazda RX8
2006 Yamaha Banshee
2014 18' Eclipse Toy Hauler
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kansei
Redlining
Wankelized
Posts: 423
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posted January 11, 2007 06:35 PM |
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Yeah, I hear ya...
I am just going to put it out back in case I need something off of it down the road. The bizarre thing is that I really don't need to sell it, but all the people on the various forums looking for trucks, I figured someone would have a great place to start with this truck somewhat cheap. The only non-running comparison truck I could find was on collectorcartraderonline.com and was incomplete, even missing an engine and trans, and needed paint like mine for $1800 in Hemet, California. I guess although I don't completely agree with some of his valuations, I am starting to see where Bruce has been coming from. People want stuff for next to nothing, but want big returns when they go to sell something themselves. Heck, there's an RX-4 Wagon on craigslist right now, with no engine for $1800. That's just what I always figured this stuff was worth if it was a decent starting point. Granted, I didn't feel that way years ago, but trying to get parts or whole trucks nowadays seems darn near impossible. But as wooody pointed out, a good rust free truck from Cali is supposed to go for less than what I had mine priced at. No problem. I was apparently very wrong, and that's that. But I'll definitely be keeping my eyes open for all those nice rust free trucks available for $1600 or less- heck at that price, I'll be buying a few more!
Neal.
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted January 12, 2007 09:48 AM |
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how about fixing the rust?
to make the truck more appealing?
A grinder + knot wire wheel + rust neutralizer + primer goes a long ways. if you don't want grey spots you could always yellow rattlecan over the primer. just trying to help.
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted January 12, 2007 11:38 AM |
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I'd suggest...:
...properly dealt with and quality primered where the rust is now, would be preferable to hiding it further under rattlecan yellow. Were you to take closeups of those spots along the way in that process, I'd say that sort of evidence of it having been done right the first time would be a selling pointto any serious prospective buyer...
...of course, I could always be wrong...
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kansei
Redlining
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Posts: 423
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posted January 12, 2007 08:56 PM |
Edited By: kansei on 12 Jan 2007 20:58
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Well, I've had an idea...
for awhile now. Sacriligous, I admit, but I have a strong 12A in a '79 RX-7 with the desireable 5 speed SA gearbox behind it, and although I have heard many people say not to put a 12A in a REPU for many reasons, most of all being the lack of power, I figured I could fix the rust as mentioned above, even rattle can over that as suggested to make it blend a bit and make the truck a 30-footer, install the 12A and have a driver. Nothing fancy, but what the heck, you know? The RX-7 needs to get taken apart anyways due to some cancerous areas I'm just too lazy to fix properly (and besides, I don't want to paint that car anyhow). I would just want the yellow truck for local trips that I may not want to take my green truck on for fear of parking lot dents and the like. And then maybe fix the yellow truck up little by little as parts and money becomes available. That way she gets used rather than rots out back. Plus, if I am using it as a driver, I am more likely to put some time and TLC into it and it may be around many years from now (Charles- Jethro was the inspiration here!).
Neal.
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admin
Administrator
Posts: 446
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posted January 13, 2007 09:35 PM |
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12a's can be strong motors... and with the right carb setup, the power can be very surprising.
If you have the parts, then I say why not. A 12a is 100% better than a nasty pissed-on engine powering the beast.
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I'm The Admin, thats why!
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dallenmarket
Newbie
Posts: 4
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posted February 26, 2007 12:21 AM |
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The 12a is a very capable engine IF you can still find the parts (I used Racing Beat for my mods) I raced my 73 RX3, 12a 320 HP in SCCA back in the early 70's in New England. The mods used made it barely streetable, but it ate anything in its class for lunch. My 12a in my later 79 RX 7 that I raced in the S.E. U.S. was only modded to 240 HP. Much better for the street and almost as quick as the RX3 racing. Due to its lower, stiffer suspension and with much better tires, the 7 had better lap times than the 3.
The 13b 4 spd in my 74 REPU ran about equal to my 13b powered 74 RX4 with an auto trans., but suffered in the top end due to the 4.11? rears vs the coupe's 3.70? rears.
BTW: I used my REPU to tow a trailer carrying my RX3 to the track. The bed carrried spare wheels, parts and tools.
The stock 12a was about 90 hp/100 'lbs in my 3, 100 hp/115'lbs in the 7, vs 120 hp/138'lbs in my REPU. I don't know what the torque became with the high HP mods, but I'm sure it went up substantially.
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Always willing to give free rotary vehicles and parts a good home!!!
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ovquick
Redlining
Posts: 253
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posted February 26, 2007 10:02 AM |
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12A in REPU
I have a red REPU that I picked up a long time ago (wouldn't smog because of the 12A) it has a RB intake & Holley plus header and it would easily run with a stock 13B.
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Manteca Mazda Asylum
where a boy and his cat live, without adult supervision
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