|
|
Thread: Welder suggestions
|
jfaplanet
Redlining
Posts: 356
|
posted April 29, 2003 07:19 PM |
|
Welder suggestions
I'm thinking about buying a mig welder, does anyone have any suggestions. Brand, gas/gasless, amperage, to buy or not to buy. I would like to hear anyone's horror stories or success stories. Thanks, Charles
____________
74 REPU "Red"
74 REPU "Jethro" "TII"
74 RE-Courier vert
79 SA-SE(aka deathtrap)
79 SA-SE-FC (project
turbo)
http://home.bellsouth.net
/p/PWP-crgj
TN Forum:
http://tnrotary.10.forume
r.com/
|
|
Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
|
posted April 30, 2003 12:10 AM |
|
Good question. I'd like to get one, too.
____________
'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
|
|
rotormunky
Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
|
|
posted April 30, 2003 08:23 AM |
|
This is TOTALLY second-hand info but...
My father's friend does a TONNE of welding. And all his stuff is very pretty. He's built motorcycle jacks, and huge trailer-mounted BBQs which super straight and small beads. So I asked him for advice since I was interested in getting a welder too.
He said DEFINITELY get a gas mig welder. He said its too hard to control your bead without it, there's a tonne of flux otherwise and its just not THAT much more expensive. He also said go with a 110V welder unless you're a professional welder and you plan on welding 10-12 hours a day on greater than quarter inch stock.
He mentioned that its a LOT easier to control temperature on a 110V too, and that its near impossible to use a 220V on sheet metal no matter how caareful you are as you tend to either blow through the metal or warp it.
Again its total second-hand advice but he's a decent guy and I've always been super-impressed with his welds. Always far and away better than the welds I've seen on ready-made trailers at Habour-Freight or Northern Tool and Supply and the like.
Harbor Freight sells a 110V welder for $500 that you can use with and without gas.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42337
I've seen it on sale as low as $425- in the past. We just got a decent air-compressor for my father's shop so I have to wait a little while before I can look into a welder now.
____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida
http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU
'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)
|
|
banzaitoyta
1st Gear
Posts: 22
|
|
posted April 30, 2003 10:29 AM |
|
I have a Hobart Handler 135. Runs on 110V AC, I use it for boby work(MS) and Exhaust work (SS). Run a GOOD quality shielding Gas. I run 90/10 mix for Mild Steel and Tri-Mix for Stainless Steel.
Here is a helpful link: http://hobart.envano.net/mboard/
|
|
rotormunky
Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
|
|
posted April 30, 2003 11:48 AM |
|
Hey that's the one my dad's friend has and suggested for me. Also the one I posted there in the link above. Does 450-500 seem like a reasonable price for that rig?
Have you been happy with it? Ever run into a situation where it wasn't adequate?
____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida
http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU
'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)
|
|
banzaitoyta
1st Gear
Posts: 22
|
|
posted April 30, 2003 12:32 PM |
|
|
I got mine for 399 from Northern tools. Only thing it doesn't do well is Aluminum (Could also be the operator)
|
|
rotormunky
Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
|
|
posted April 30, 2003 12:59 PM |
|
I've never seen anyone weld aluminum WELL. I've heard that it and titanium are a real PITA.
____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida
http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU
'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)
|
|
Blake
1st Gear
Posts: 14
|
|
posted April 30, 2003 02:54 PM |
|
I've done a lot of welding the last couple years, thanks to the GRM Challenge. I've used 110v MIG, 220v MIG, and a 220v TIG. The 110v (Millermatic) was great, but certainly lacks the "omph" of the 220v unit (also a Millermatic). The 220v one also feels and operates better, probably because it is a true professional model (over $1,500) and designed to operate continuously (i.e. 100 duty cycle) on relatively heavy stock. As for a 220v unit being unusable for light stuff, like sheetmetal, that is complete BS. It might not be quite as easy as the 110v unit, but the difference is really marginal. I spent 8 hours one day welding patches on the front of my RX-Sevenandahalf trailer using very light gauge sheet metal with the 220v MIG welder, and the results were very good. In fact, all that practice on light stuff improved my welding technique 1000% in one day! There is no screwing around or faking it when you are dealing with thin sheetmetal and a powerful MIG welder. The 220v MIG unit also has a spool gun for welding aluminum, so the versatility is great. BTW, always use a gas-shielded model! Flux-core rod stuff is for hacks and cheapskates and the hassle and poor weld quality is never worth the few bucks you save initially.
The TIG welder is a whole 'nuther level of skill and effort, as well as capability. Rather than simply pull the trigger and move the tip around, you must modulate the power with a foot control while feeding the filler rod into the weld puddle AND moving the tip. Think of rubbing your belly while patting your head and reciting the alphabet backwards! But, the results can be spectacular and you can handle virtually any weldable material. This is the preferred method for doing Aluminum, stainless steel and Chromolly, but can be used for ordinary steel if the weld quality has to be great. Very time consuming and it takes a lot of practice.
Hope that helps. BTW, here is a picture of my race car and trailer at the GRM Challenge:
--
Blake Qualley
____________
--
Blake Qualley
|
|
rtrypwr
Hauling
Posts: 115
|
|
posted April 30, 2003 07:55 PM |
|
welder
i bought a lincoln 125 plus approx 5 years ago, ran 60+ lbs of wire through it and haven't had to replace or fix a thing. if you get a welder make sure the wire speed and heat range are fully adjustable.you have to be able to choose in between the settings, or you will hate your machine.get a 110v it will plug in anywhere. i've made multipull custom hitches using my machine with 1/4 in plate stock. it takes multiple passes sometimes, or take your time and get a good puddle to work with. i paid appox 850.00 for my lincoln with all accessories [wire,gas&bottle,regulator,hood, etc].get an auto darkening hood, when you're under a car jammed into a tight space you'll be happy you have one. always keep an extra spool of wire and lot's of tips, i've ran out before in the middle of a project and it sucks! i also keep a full bottle of argon-carbon dioxide on hand. p.s. get ready for the phone calls {dude can ya weld this up for me} the only thing i can say is "you're gonna get what ya pay for. once you have a welder you'll use it way more than you can imagine.
|
|
|
|
|
