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Index > @ the Pickup Bed (General Topics) > Thread: 7T7 REPU Build
Thread: 7T7 REPU Build [' This thread is 2 pages long: (1) 2 ']
papsmagu


Revvin Up
Posts: 96
posted August 16, 2012 02:08 PM

7T7 REPU Build

Hope this works......never posted pictures on this site before. Ignore the references to people on "this" forum. I own an FD and this thread was made for the rx7club forum. too lazy to remove reference.

Here is my build thread of my 1977 REPU. I picked up this REPU from Chad on the forum in February of this year. I picked it up in TN just from pictures provide by Chad, I can honestly say he described it perfect, great seller. Great truck, ran fine and basically rust free with the exception of a couple of rust spots here and there, mostly surface rust. The truck did not stop for shit ahahahhaha. I will let the pics speak for themselves but if you have any specific questions on anything feel free to ask. Also, I am no photographer, in fact, I hate taking pictures. All pics were taken with my phone.
Many friends have helped in this build and a thanks goes out to all my Rotary Brothers that have helped me! Joe, Jorge, Chris and Luis. BIG Thanks to Joe for most of the help and Jorge for supplying plenty of Miller Light.
This is my first introduction to the REPU.
Chad and I going over the truck.






Engine



Interior

All loaded up and ready to make the trip to FL





First thing I did when I got home was bleed the brakes and drove it the entire weekend. Put over 100 miles on her but the brakes needed more than bleeding so the tear down began:

Front brakes


Rear Drums – The culprit for my braking issues



The tear down process begins:









On the flat bed and of to PAINT!













Finally some color going down








Color is from a 2012 Ford Taurus but it’s my understanding that you can get it on any Ford as long as you order it that way. Buddy’s wife has it on her car. It’s called White Platinum Metallic Tri Coat. It’s got what looks like to be gold and blue pearl in it. Looks really pretty nice in the sun.






The sticker was made by taking the original and having it outlined in blue. I did not want solid letters. Had a friend make me the outline and it was applied prior to clear coat. Pretty nerve racking to install the sticker on fresh paint knowing if you screw it up, your re-painting the tail gate. Luckily I got it right the first time.








Finally home from paint. Ready for Assembly.








Every bushing was replaced on the truck. New idler arm. New tie rod ends with greasable fittings installed. New sway bar links, etc etc.










Juan from the rx7club forum was kind enough to source some Superpro rear leaf spring bushings. All six rear bushings were replaced with new ones.




Part of my replacing all the bushing was the task of replacing the drag link. They no longer make the drag link for the Courier of the REPU so I learned from the REPU forums that the popular fix to this is purchasing the drag link from a Mazda B2000 and making it a bit longer. Here is a pic of the original and the new modified drag link.





As stated before the truck drove fine but it did not like to stop. Installed new master cylinder and new brakes. I got the idea on the brakes from RotaryDave. He was helpful in answering some of my questions. Ordered the brakes from Aerospace components. Aerospace is a top notch company and helped me out tremendously, especially on the parking brake in the rear.










Front finally done and back on the ground, wheels are from the FD, just temporary





Picked up new (to me) 8.8 rear end from a Ford explorer. New clutch packs installed, new axles, new bearing kit and cool cover was installed. Anything above 1995 came with disk brakes in the back. This was to make the rear disk brake installation easier, well it wasn’t. Apparently there are two types of 8.8’s. One is known as BIG FORD (New Style) and the other is just a regular ford 8.8. I somehow got a mix of both. Got the flange PCD of a ford 8.8 and the center bore diameter of the BIG FORD style. Needless to say, it made it for an interesting design of the rear parking brakes. Nevertheless, Aerospace worked with me and got me the rear brakes.










Wanted to remain stock with the engine as this is going to be a cruiser so I just dressed the engine bay up a bit. No real power adders to look at. Clean up the fuel system and intake manifold. Re-built the carb and added headers. Nothing much to report here.







As you can see from the above pics I bought a Rotary Works Gilmer Drive pulley set. It did not last too long and nothing fit properly. I had to alter every pulley to get them to fit (All three). Took about three hours to install pulleys on a motor that was on the engine stand!!!!!! When I started the truck up, the main alternator pulley started to come apart. The reason why is below, you can see the difference in thinkness of the actual center bore. I have seen these pulleys successfully used on may cars but it did not work for me.





Ordered the real Gilmer Pulleys from Australia and while I was at it, ordered an alternator relocation kit. Not sure I like the alternator in this location. When I install AC, I can always relocate the alternator back to its original position.






Bought a really cool coolant overflow tank from Aerospace and it sits right next to the windshield washer fluid tank. I tried to clean the windshield washer tank but it just did not compare to the coolant overflow tank. Looked all over and could not find it new so I had one made out of aluminum…..yes I know, its overkill for its purpose but it’s cool nonetheless.







Radiator from Rotary Works from a second gen was used. Copied RotaryDave and his build. Also copied the Scirocco style fans. THANKS for the ideas Dave. Had some new braces made for the radiator and for the fans. Everything came out really nice.







Installed the Oil Cooler directly to the bottom of the radiator. When I installed the front valance I realized that the oil cooler was directly behind the front bumper. DAMIT! Not that I will be racing this thing on the track but nonetheless, I wanted to get proper air flow to the oil cooler. Made some supports to lower the oil cooler. Did not want them to be rigid so I used some old rubber bushings I had laying around.






I knew that I would not be using the belt driven fans anymore so the electrical system was upgraded….well kind of upgraded. I removed all the excess emission wires that were not required. S4 internally regulated dizzy was in the truck so out went the external regulator and all of its associated wiring. I used a stock FD fuse box for all of the constant power connections and used a FC Fuse box for all the switched power. This was a huge pain in the ASS, because I hate wiring and electrical.













Interior was cleaned out and dynamat installed throughout the interior, doors and behind the dash.





Dashboard was removed stirpped of all of its paint and rust and painted black with clear coat. I used the FD - 3 Pod gauge cluster for the gauges. Had a have a new bottom fabbed for the cluster so that it would fit but it came out really nice. I went with Autometer gauges because I felt that they matched best with the stock guages.




I was able to find some new, still in Mazda packaging tail lights and side markers. SCORE!











New Radio and radio surround.





Went with nardi steering wheel with NRG Tilt option.




Got everything re-chromed front bumper, light bezels, door handles, etc etc.




Could not get the Chrome piece that went inside the windshield molding so I had to settle for a standard aftermarket seal.





Bed liner has gone through a couple of different applications. First I tried the roll on stuff, it sucks. Second I tried the spray on liner, a little bit better but not the finish I want. I have two last options that I may go with but they will come later. Either professional spray on liner or wood. Leaning toward the wood but we’ll see. In the meantime here is pic of the temporary spray on liner.





Was able to find some cool old school mazda mudflaps. Also got the mudflap brackets chromed. Not sure if these will make it on the truck. We’ll see…………





I have always been a big fan of the BMW Angle Eye headlights so I was able to source some for the truck. Some modifications to the headlight brackets supports were required but nothing major. Kit came with all the wiring and bulbs. Relatively inexpensive also. BIG thanks to Jorge for ordering these for me and many many many other parts! (I don’t have paypal) GOD knows what he had to go through to explain to his wife every time a package showed up at his house! Sorry Jorge, but THANKS.







As I mentioned before, many thanks to all my friends that helped me. Here is some pics of my 4 year old nephew helping me. He kept wanting to work on the engine, as seen in the first picture…….but it wasn’t his lucky day cause engine was done and the rear end was the task at hand. Ahhahahahahaha






Wheels were ordered and the manufacturer told me it would take about 1 week. Almost two months later they arrived. Nothing special just Rota Grids. Fronts 17x8 ET 30 Rears are 17X9 ET 25 (If I remember correctly). I wanted them blue to match the rear “Rotary Power� so off they went to the powder coaters. Wrapped them with Nitto 215/40 Fronts and 225/45 Rears (THANKS JOE). Yeah I know the truck has to be lowered but I think all the new bushings are making it look like BIGFOOT. Hopefully the suspension settles a bit when I start driving it. If not, it will lower it.

[IMG]
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/papsmagu/REPU/IMG_1385.jpg





Truck did not have floor mats so after months of searching I was able to source some Ford Courier floor mats. Got them through LMC Truck. Fast delivery and great quality. Fitment is great. Only issue I had was I wanted them to be Mazda floor mats. This is what I came up with. I think it came out pretty cool and ties some of the blue accents from the exterior of the truck to the inside.
Locating a good spot and preparing to cut.






Got a Nardi shifter nob to match the Nardi steering wheel.




In my effort to clean this truck up, I got rid of the choke, choke knob and wire. Thought it would be a cool place to install the ignition. Took some minor modification but here is the finished product.





First attempt of installing an adjustable fan controller failed miserably because I broke it….i really need to read directions. They specifically said do not turn adjustment screw clockwise and I did. Had to order a new one, once installed it works great. This allowed me to install the grille. After all these months I have had the grill waiting to be installed, I finally got to install it. Really happy how it looks.







Gonna get the header coated with heat coating but for now it will remain this way. Got the muffler installed. Always wanted the pipes out the side, as I think the pipes out the rear looks a little weird without a bumper. Nevertheless, here are the pics.









As part of the sale of the REPU the seller gave me the coolest rain diverters for the REPU. They are made by a company or I should say “Were Made� Eco Air Systems Inc, out of Riverside California. I think they are the coolest thing on the truck!





http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/papsmagu/REPU/IMG_1679.jpg[/IMG]


All done for now and ready to enjoy it. I have some things I want to do as I go but for now, all I will do is add pre-mix/gas and drive it.
Some final pics:





Thanks for looking.

       
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papsmagu


Revvin Up
Posts: 96
posted August 16, 2012 02:13 PM
Edited By: papsmagu on 16 Aug 2012 14:19

here are some pics of what it looks like after 200 miles of driving her around town





       
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absolutjh


1st Gear
Posts: 37
posted August 16, 2012 02:34 PM

You've done some really amazing work here. It's nice to see another member restore/revitalize another classic auto. These trucks are a rare breed and need to be treated as such.

Thank you for the motivation to resume my rebuild, and for the ideas too. I may have to "borrow" your brake work ideas, as well as a few others.

Enjoy your "new" truck.

____________
JOSHUA HAYES
1974 REPU, w/ Pineapple
Racing Bridge Port 13B and
RX-7 5 Speed conversion.

2001 BMW E38 740i Sport

       
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TimPA136


Redlining
Posts: 325
posted August 16, 2012 09:43 PM

papsmagu

Thanks for sharing the awe inspiring photos and captions
of your beautiful creation. I studied every photo and for a guy who hates taking pictures or doing wireing, I see top
craftsmanship in all your work. Thats a beautiful color you
picked , the exhaust takes me back, I can;t begin to imagine the hours you spent. What a head turner.

       
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papsmagu


Revvin Up
Posts: 96
posted August 17, 2012 04:54 AM

quote:
Thanks for sharing the awe inspiring photos and captions
of your beautiful creation. I studied every photo and for a guy who hates taking pictures or doing wireing, I see top
craftsmanship in all your work. Thats a beautiful color you
picked , the exhaust takes me back, I can;t begin to imagine the hours you spent. What a head turner.


Thanks and glad you appreciate my work. i will be changing the mufflers out of the exhaust system. tthe mufflers installed just dont provide enough sound deading for me. truck is too loud right now......or i am too old. probably too old. anyways, the system will stay the same with different mufflers.

the color took me some time to pick out. i originally was set on a nissan white and one day i was leaving a quick mart and saw a Ford Taurus parked next to me. I was sold on the color the minute i saw it. i was taking pictures of the VIN when the onwer came out. awkward moment to say the least, but the Owner was cool and understood my liking to his car.



quote:
You've done some really amazing work here. It's nice to see another member restore/revitalize another classic auto. These trucks are a rare breed and need to be treated as such.

Thank you for the motivation to resume my rebuild, and for the ideas too. I may have to "borrow" your brake work ideas, as well as a few others.

Enjoy your "new" truck.



THANKS.....You can "borrow" what ever idea's you want. that is one of the reason's i posted this, so others can get ideas on what to do and in some cases what not to do.

the brakes are relatively inexpensive. i went with two piece rotors in the front and nickel plated everything for $895. Rears were a little bit more expensive due to the parking brake mechanisim. if i remember correctly they were just shy of $1100. Everything included, hardware, pads, brakelines, and even fittings for the brake lines. Also, great customer service.

I am enjoying the truck. i take it out as much as possible. i have some other things i want to do to it, but for now, i will just add gas and drive.

       
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Klaus45


Redlining
On two wheels
Posts: 218
posted August 19, 2012 04:56 PM

WOW.

Beautiful Job!

       
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pete19964


1st Gear
Posts: 43
posted August 20, 2012 05:29 PM

quote:
quote:
Thanks for sharing the awe inspiring photos and captions
of your beautiful creation. I studied every photo and for a guy who hates taking pictures or doing wireing, I see top
craftsmanship in all your work. Thats a beautiful color you
picked , the exhaust takes me back, I can;t begin to imagine the hours you spent. What a head turner.


Thanks and glad you appreciate my work. i will be changing the mufflers out of the exhaust system. tthe mufflers installed just dont provide enough sound deading for me. truck is too loud right now......or i am too old. probably too old. anyways, the system will stay the same with different mufflers.

the color took me some time to pick out. i originally was set on a nissan white and one day i was leaving a quick mart and saw a Ford Taurus parked next to me. I was sold on the color the minute i saw it. i was taking pictures of the VIN when the onwer came out. awkward moment to say the least, but the Owner was cool and understood my liking to his car.



quote:
You've done some really amazing work here. It's nice to see another member restore/revitalize another classic auto. These trucks are a rare breed and need to be treated as such.

Thank you for the motivation to resume my rebuild, and for the ideas too. I may have to "borrow" your brake work ideas, as well as a few others.

Enjoy your "new" truck.



THANKS.....You can "borrow" what ever idea's you want. that is one of the reason's i posted this, so others can get ideas on what to do and in some cases what not to do.

the brakes are relatively inexpensive. i went with two piece rotors in the front and nickel plated everything for $895. Rears were a little bit more expensive due to the parking brake mechanisim. if i remember correctly they were just shy of $1100. Everything included, hardware, pads, brakelines, and even fittings for the brake lines. Also, great customer service.

I am enjoying the truck. i take it out as much as possible. i have some other things i want to do to it, but for now, i will just add gas and drive.


Are you locted in Florida if so what part? I was looking at your pictures and I was so zoned out that my daughter said it was as if I was lookin at Playboy pictures because I was ignoring her, haha!!! I'm located in central Florida in Eustis and a lot of things you've done to your truck that I would like to do to mine. I would like for us to get together to maybe get help on doing some of those things to my truck too.


       
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Papsmagu


Revvin Up
Posts: 96
posted August 23, 2012 08:56 AM

quote:


Are you locted in Florida if so what part? I was looking at your pictures and I was so zoned out that my daughter said it was as if I was lookin at Playboy pictures because I was ignoring her, haha!!! I'm located in central Florida in Eustis and a lot of things you've done to your truck that I would like to do to mine. I would like for us to get together to maybe get help on doing some of those things to my truck too.




I am in Florida but about 4 hours south of you. I live in south Florida. If you want to join us, we have an annual rotary meet in south Florida. Usually the second weekend in November. A lot of Orlando guys caravan down here. Pretty good event, usually over 60 cars and tons of people. I will post a link for it once we set the date. Anyways, the truck will be at this event or let me know when ur in the sfl area and I can show u the truck.

Thanks

Simon

       
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pete19964


1st Gear
Posts: 43
posted August 28, 2012 11:05 AM

Hey Simon

can you send me or post info on where you got an
the lights also who did your dash an chrome.

thanks pete

       
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papsmagu


Revvin Up
Posts: 96
posted August 30, 2012 06:56 AM

quote:
Hey Simon

can you send me or post info on where you got an
the lights also who did your dash an chrome.

thanks pete


Link to the lights. Minor modification ot the buckets is required but nothing major.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-70-CHEVY-CHEVELLE-ANGEL-HALO-XENON-HID-HEADLIGHTS-69-/310404702776?_trksid=m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8833741677035364073

Chrome was done by a local company named Melimar Finishing
their number is 954-327-5788. They are supper expnsive but really really good. Address is 5990 SW 42nd Place, Davie FL 33314.

What part of the dash are you refering to? The metal part that is painted? If so, i just took it to the guy who painted my car and had him paint and clear it. Nothing special.


       
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pete19964


1st Gear
Posts: 43
posted September 02, 2012 12:28 PM

Hey Simon

thanks for the info you help me an a lot of other member on this forum who did your upholstery dish seat door panels also the gremlin pullly i found some site but dont if its the right one.

thanks pete



       
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papsmagu


Revvin Up
Posts: 96
posted September 04, 2012 05:58 AM

quote:
Hey Simon

thanks for the info you help me an a lot of other member on this forum who did your upholstery dish seat door panels also the gremlin pullly i found some site but dont if its the right one.

thanks pete





xtreme rotary's out of Australia. here is the link.

http://xtremerotaries.com/products/engine-components/pulleys-and-gilmer-kits/d308-gilmer-drive-kit

its expnesive and its takes about a month to get but its well worth it. i wasted so much time and effrot making the Rotary Works pulley's work then they come apart at start up!

seat and door panels were done by a local shop. they suck ASS. they took way too long. Almost 2 months and the quality is not all that great. everytime i called the owner would give me a different story. when i went by the shop un-announced my parts were in the same spot that they were left when i dropped off the interior.....would not recommend them to my worst enemy. ask around....there are plenty of good shops out there, i just got the wrong one.

       
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papsmagu


Revvin Up
Posts: 96
posted September 04, 2012 07:06 AM

got new exhaust in.....much quiter but still not what i was hoping for. i guess i am getting too old! took it out for a nice 70 mile cruise. seems like needle valve is sticking on the carb. that thing is brand new. maybe got something stuck in it. i have to take it appart and find out. anyways, here is a pic of the new exhaust and a pic from my cruise.






       
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Brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted September 04, 2012 01:04 PM

Great work there. Can you repost the latest pics of the exhaust, photobucket isn't displaying them here.

The 1/8" thick wall tubing that Racing Beat suggests keeps more noise in the pipes than the piston pipes muffler shops install. The rotary is simply darn loud. Their presilencers even use thicker gauge sheet metal to keep noise in and so they won't split open as easily under backfire. To keep droning down the smaller 2" O.D. pipes help and some sort of a chambered muffler knocks down noise.

But I really like that side exhaust!!!!

I'm not sure why a Ford rear was chosen, that's typically done once a turbo is installed. But it all worked out.

Again, great work!
BRAD

       
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chuyler1


Hauling
Posts: 140
posted September 04, 2012 01:18 PM

Nice work. I hear ya about the exhaust. I ended up with the RB header, RB silencer, RB muffler, and then an additional muffler (all 2.5"). Its quiet above 2,500 RPM but has a nice deep sound below that. The rotor heads think its too quiet, which means its just perfect for long cruises. I just took the truck on a 350mi round trip and it was a joy to drive on the highway.

       
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papsmagu


Revvin Up
Posts: 96
posted September 05, 2012 04:39 AM
Edited By: papsmagu on 5 Sep 2012 04:40

quote:
Nice work. I hear ya about the exhaust. I ended up with the RB header, RB silencer, RB muffler, and then an additional muffler (all 2.5"). Its quiet above 2,500 RPM but has a nice deep sound below that. The rotor heads think its too quiet, which means its just perfect for long cruises. I just took the truck on a 350mi round trip and it was a joy to drive on the highway.


Thanks. Yeah, looks like i may have to go with another set of mufflers. really not as quiet as i want the truck to be. jury is still out? i will see what i do in the next month or so. i will keep you posted.

quote:
Great work there. Can you repost the latest pics of the exhaust, photobucket isn't displaying them here.

The 1/8" thick wall tubing that Racing Beat suggests keeps more noise in the pipes than the piston pipes muffler shops install. The rotary is simply darn loud. Their presilencers even use thicker gauge sheet metal to keep noise in and so they won't split open as easily under backfire. To keep droning down the smaller 2" O.D. pipes help and some sort of a chambered muffler knocks down noise.

But I really like that side exhaust!!!!

I'm not sure why a Ford rear was chosen, that's typically done once a turbo is installed. But it all worked out.

Again, great work!
BRAD


Fixed link to photobucket.....just another attempt of me whoring out the truck ahahahhahahahahah

the mufflers installed are chambered but i think there may be a third attempt at quieting this sucker down? We'll see. I really want to keep the side exhaust and if i add another set of mufflers, i think side exhaust is out of the question?

rear end was selected because i wanted rear disk brakes and this would make the conversion easier. also, when i hit the lotto (going to be hard casuse i dont play it) the truck will have a NA 20B. So the truck will never have a 20B! I know its an overkill for what i have now, but in my mind, it was going to make the disk brake converston easier and allow me to install a cool cover for it. Hope that makes sense?

thanks for the compliments

simon

       
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papsmagu


Revvin Up
Posts: 96
posted October 13, 2012 04:04 AM

new wheels

didn't like the way the Rota's looked on the truck. wanted a something a little more "old school". Found some BBS RS and had them powder coated white. i wanted that skateboard look and i got it. really really happy with the outcome. here is a pic of the truck with the new wheels. its a little high because i took this pic before driving her around, nonetheless, i think i am going to lower the front a bit. enjoy.



sorry this is the only pic i have so far. i will try and take some more this weekend.

       
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capi


1st Gear
Posts: 16
posted October 13, 2012 12:01 PM

Nice work and good inspiration, thank you for your detailed post :-)
____________
1981 RX-7 SA2
1989 Celica ST165
1990 Patrol Y60
1994 Celica ST202

       
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xp882


Redlining
Posts: 294
posted October 13, 2012 01:51 PM

Wheels look ten times better wasn't a fan of blue wheels at all
____________


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papsmagu


Revvin Up
Posts: 96
posted October 16, 2012 06:23 AM
Edited By: papsmagu on 16 Oct 2012 06:24

quote:
Wheels look ten times better wasn't a fan of blue wheels at all


thanks, i did not like the fitment of the old wheels. overtime, it bothered me more and more until i did something about it.

quote:
Nice work and good inspiration, thank you for your detailed post :-)


thanks,

here are a couple of more pics. I will now stop whoring out my truck ahahahahhahahahahah




       
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