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Thread: my rotary escapades for the day :(
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted April 05, 2004 08:39 PM |
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my rotary escapades for the day :(
well here goes... took the 84 out for a drive again... it was overheating, it blew the radiator hose off the top of the motor, think its thermostat related, purchased a new one... the car's puffing lots and lots of smoke, i get it home after 15 minutes of driving... i had put 3 quarts of oil in before i left cause i noticed it had about a quart in it... so when i got home it was smoking like mad from every corner of the motor, i thinkt he oil pan isn't secured very well, shoulda checked it out before installing hte motor... i have a leak in my exhaust piping somewhere near the motor too... so heres a pic of the oil leak a few hours after i parked... 95% of the oil int he pic was there within 2 minutes of parking... the oil is completely lacking from the dipstick...
yes its scary:( i'm incredibly disappointed with this motor now... i should have never bought it from that shithole mazda's and more... thats what i get for giving that pos my business. never again. anyways, now on to the REPU... since i rebuilt the motor myself this ones my own fault, no one to blame but myself, for what i'm not sure, i don't know what happened...
heres a view of the front stationary gear... and a few more
the bearing would not seperate from the eccentric shaft.. i had to use a pulley puller to get the stationary out of there... it was really crappy... rotortuner and i managed to get the rest apart today, and he hooked me up with a good E shaft and front and rear stationary, the rear stationary just needs a new bearing the front is fine... anyways heres the old rear stationary and rotor...
the bearing ont he rear rotor was brand new from atkins... i don't want to put any blame at all on atkins, i know it wasn't their fault, it was mine, probly for being my first time lol... in fact atkins has done nothing but be helpful to me, incredibly helpful, and i thank every who works there, especially dan...
as u can see i hosed things up pretty good... hopefully the next go around isn't so bad...
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jfaplanet
Redlining
Posts: 356
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posted April 05, 2004 08:56 PM |
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Bearing
I've had a bearing do that before in a 12A. It was a new bearing that wasn't broken in good. Locked the engine up tight. I will never use a new bearing again. I like the already borken in ones. Good luck with getting it all put back together.
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74 REPU "Red"
74 REPU "Jethro" "TII"
74 RE-Courier vert
79 SA-SE(aka deathtrap)
79 SA-SE-FC (project
turbo)
http://home.bellsouth.net
/p/PWP-crgj
TN Forum:
http://tnrotary.10.forume
r.com/
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted April 05, 2004 09:24 PM |
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the big problem i see... is its not just one or 2 bearings, its all the bearings... the ones in the stationaries were old, it was probly their time anyways... but the ones in the rotors were brand new and lasted 3 miles... i didn't even go over 4000 rpm in that 3 miles, hell it only was 4k once
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bliffle
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted April 05, 2004 09:42 PM |
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Well, that happened to me the first time I overhauled a motor. Somehow it's hard to believe that all those big beefy steel parts are utterly dependent on close fits with little bitty parts. Sigh. Experience is a harsh teacher.
It helps to have an expert handy. A few years ago I had to replace some driveshaft UJoints and was lucky enough to know an expert mechanic to advise me. Amazing how many things you can do wrong with something as (seemingly) simple as a UJoint.
One time I had a crankshaft out (of a boinger) and the oilways had tapered aluminum plugs driven in to close them, and my expert mechanic said I should thread the holes and screw in tapered pipe plugs for a more secure hold, but I was in a hurry and just bunged in the aluminimum plugs, and sure enough, they came out in a few thousand miles and oil pressure went to about zero.
Another time I used silicone gasket sealer when assembling an engine, and some of the sealer covered oilways and waterways between the block and head and the engine burned up. The experts told me to use chassis grease on gaskets because it'll melt and get washed away by hot oil or water. Also, the grease wil squish around OK when the engine heats and cools and distorts, but the hard stuff won't, so you'll get leaks.
That's just a couple of boners I've pulled, and I haven't even done a lot of engines!
You're lucky to have guys willing to talk and help you.
Be sure to check on 'www.rx7club.com', too, I've solved a LOT of problems there, just by asking and searching. You're lucky us rotary guys are really communicative about our cars and trucks. I don't know of any other car club that's as active, though I would guess some of the classic car sites are good.
B
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted April 06, 2004 12:49 AM |
 Edited By: Jeff20B on 6 Apr 2004 00:50 |
Youch! I'm sorry your first rebuild failed due to... bad oiling? Too much thrust? Good luck to you.
By the way, is the oil pouring from the beehive oil cooler?
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted April 06, 2004 04:47 AM |
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quote:
Youch! I'm sorry your first rebuild failed due to... bad oiling? Too much thrust? Good luck to you.
By the way, is the oil pouring from the beehive oil cooler?
nope, looks like its coming from the front part of the gasket... if anything i think i'm going carb'd 13B in my 84..
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted April 12, 2004 10:27 AM |
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did it have normal oil pressure?
now would be a great time to install Autometer oil pressure and temp gauges to monitor what goes on.
all that bearing damage sounds like low oil circulation. was the end play on the e-shaft set properly?
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted April 13, 2004 12:15 AM |
Edited By: Jeff20B on 13 Apr 2004 00:18
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He accidentally used two tapered thrust washers (washers? is that what they're called?) instead of one tapered and one thin one.
I picked up a thrust assembly the other day for an upcoming engine project.
The R5 does not have an oil pressure guage hole. One will have to be drilled and tapped. Or you could get the Racing Beat adaptor which sits between the pedestal and plate. It has standard NPT threaded pressure and temperature holes. I have one, and it'll go on an engine some day, like if and when I get a supercharger. I've also drilled and tapped one of my R5 plates. You've gotta drill it dead center, and then carefully cut threads in the cast iron. Not reccomended for a newbie.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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jfaplanet
Redlining
Posts: 356
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posted April 13, 2004 05:10 AM |
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Oil pressure
My oil pressure line is run to a fitting drilled and tapped into the banjo bold that holds the oil cooler line to the rear plate. A lot easier than trying to drill and tap a rear plate. Good luck guys...
____________
74 REPU "Red"
74 REPU "Jethro" "TII"
74 RE-Courier vert
79 SA-SE(aka deathtrap)
79 SA-SE-FC (project
turbo)
http://home.bellsouth.net
/p/PWP-crgj
TN Forum:
http://tnrotary.10.forume
r.com/
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted April 13, 2004 11:37 AM |
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My other engine has one of those.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted April 13, 2004 11:59 AM |
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quote:
He accidentally used two tapered thrust washers (washers? is that what they're called?) instead of one tapered and one thin one.
I picked up a thrust assembly the other day for an upcoming engine project.
The R5 does not have an oil pressure guage hole. One will have to be drilled and tapped. Or you could get the Racing Beat adaptor which sits between the pedestal and plate. It has standard NPT threaded pressure and temperature holes. I have one, and it'll go on an engine some day, like if and when I get a supercharger. I've also drilled and tapped one of my R5 plates. You've gotta drill it dead center, and then carefully cut threads in the cast iron. Not reccomended for a newbie.
its already got one, tom installed it... i didn't look at oil pressure the less than 3 miles the motor ran... i think the problem with the bearings going was cause i didn't know to prelube them with vasoline or packing grease
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted April 13, 2004 01:34 PM |
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also with a new motor be sure to prime the oiling system
pour oil into both oil cooler lines, be sure to fill up the oil cooler good.
the oil filter pedastal: pour oil down the oil galley on the left, it goes down to the rear oil cooler port.
geta 3/4" rubber heater hose, put it on the threaded oil filter mount, pour two quarts of oil down there with funnel. it'll fill the rotors, bearings, and e-shaft with oil. excess oil goes down to the oil pan.
turn motor over by hand a few times then fire her up!
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted April 14, 2004 05:31 AM |
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quote:
pour oil into both oil cooler lines, be sure to fill up the oil cooler good.
the oil filter pedastal: pour oil down the oil galley on the left, it goes down to the rear oil cooler port.
geta 3/4" rubber heater hose, put it on the threaded oil filter mount, pour two quarts of oil down there with funnel. it'll fill the rotors, bearings, and e-shaft with oil. excess oil goes down to the oil pan.
turn motor over by hand a few times then fire her up!
i did all this...
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