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Index > Suspension > Thread: repu bolt pattern
Thread: repu bolt pattern

Posts: 1672
posted November 09, 2003 06:36 PM
Edited By: brad on 9 Nov 2003 18:36

REPU bolt pattern

Found this on the internet. Thought it would be useful.



6 Bolt Wheels

6 on 5-1/2"
Chevrolet - all to '48
Chevy/GMC - P.U., van to '70
- 4x4 P.U., Blazer '71-'89
- LUV 2WD '72-'84
Dodge - D-50, Ram 50 P.U. '79-'87
Ford - Courier PU '72-'84
Mazda - P.U. '72-'89
Nissan/Datsun - P.U., Pathfinder '67-'89
Toyota - SR5, 4WD P.U., Landcruiser, 4-Runner (some) to '89

74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-

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Posts: 1259
posted November 10, 2003 09:14 AM
Edited By: klaus42 on 10 Nov 2003 09:17

Very cool, Brad!

Thank you! There's gotta be a bunch past '89 as well, though, you'd think...
Now, about that offset that we need, to fit it under the fenders...
I still have a 'wheel worksheet' from a custom wheel building shop in Portland that has helpful info/diagrams for calculating the particulars... if only I knew how to load it up and post it, without using my (non-functioning) outlook express program... Any 'pewter expertise?

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Posts: 1672
posted November 10, 2003 07:27 PM
Edited By: brad on 10 Nov 2003 19:36

no prob Klaus, hope someone finds it usefil

As for offset, i'd probablly just measure the backspace. it's easy to do.


Backspace is measured from the far back edge of the rim shell to the back side of the center disc.

To Measure: Use a straight edge across the back side of the rim shell and then measure to the back side of the center disc. Or - lay the wheel (back side down) on the floor; then insert a tape measure through the center hole and measure from the floor up to the back side of center disc - this will be the backspace.

Backspace Limits
To help you better understand the constraints we have in building wheels with the desired backspace you need, we must consider the shell contour and center style. See the diagrams below to better understand backspace limits.

Note: Large backspace requests can reduce clearance and cause caliper interference, as the hub/rotor may move into the small diameter area (dropwell) of the rim shell.

A smaller backspace such as 2" (negative offset) will make the track wider.
A larger backspace such as 6" (positive offset) will make the track narrower.
Please note that getting the correct track width for the cars design is usually more important than the positive or negative effects of changing backspace.

A.) The effects of small backspace (negative offset):
1.) Places the weight of the tire and wheel farther outboard, away from the suspension.
a.) Results in increased loads and stresses on wheel bearings, ball joints and control arm bushings.
b.) May also cause steering wheel kickback and increased steering effort, making the car harder to control during turning and cornering.
c.) Creates a greater scrub radius and increased tire scrub and wear as the steering center is way back behind the wheel centerline.

B.) The effects of large backspace (positive offset):
1.) Places the weight of the tire and wheel farther inboard and closer to the suspension.
a.) Too much may cause clearance problems with brake calipers, suspension parts, etc.
b.) Reduces loads and stresses on bearings and ball joints.
c.) Reduces steering effort, making the car easier to turn and corner.
d.) Reduces the scrub radius and reduces tire scrub and wear.

74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-

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Posts: 1259
posted November 11, 2003 10:49 AM

Whew! That's a brain-full...

My goal, last time I looked into this stuff, was to figure out how to run the maximum width possible both front and rear, without interference either on the inside components, nor on the fender edges, after lowering approx. 2" front, 3" rear...
I figured I'd want to run 15" rims, certainly no larger than 16" ever... looking to duplicate stock outside wheel/tire diameter as well, basically...
Typical autocross considerations, while remaining streetable... stuff as much sticky under it as possible, without altering the speedo reading/gear ratios further.
(Already geared low enough!)

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Posts: 1672
posted November 11, 2003 11:46 AM
Edited By: brad on 11 Nov 2003 11:47

widest tires possible without interference...

i've been looking into this also.

225/50/15 on the front has a diameter of 23.7" and tread width of 7.9" A 15x8" rim would work nice with this.

245/50/15 on the rear has a diameter of 24.7" and tread width of 9/1". A 9" rim would work well.

74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-

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Posts: 1259
posted November 11, 2003 11:52 AM

Last time I checked...

I recall finding it tough to stuff 8" under a lowered front fender... of course, different manufacturer's tires do vary greatly within a given size designation, but mainly it comes down to that offset, I guess... and avoiding contact at the hard extremes of steering/braking/etc... I want a 2" drop in front, and I want to save my stock fenders, not to mention the rims, the rubber, and the suspension...
How much of the finer points depend on camber adjustment...? There's gotta be some miniscule amount of room for adjustment and play...

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Posts: 1672
posted November 11, 2003 07:12 PM
Edited By: brad on 11 Nov 2003 19:18

factory front camber range

is plus or minus 1 degree. reccomended factory is 1 degree POSITIVE camber which doesn't let any car handle worth a darn.

When i have a chance i'll have the shop dial in -1* camber up front. I did that on my rx7 and it really made a difference handeling.

i think i have 14x7 wheels and the tires are 235/60/14 Dunlops on my REPU. There is 1.25" clearance between rim and the uppper A-arm, so there's more room to tuck them in if needed.

225/50/15 on an 8" rim will strech the tire wide and be a little shorter. that tire would have approx 1.4" less diameter then my tires pictured below. More fender clearance!

74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-

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Posts: 1259
posted November 12, 2003 10:48 AM

Lookin' good there, Brad!

I've got no issue deferring to your expertise on matters technical--you always seem to have things well worked out! Of course, we all know about the wider track front vs. rear on our trucks... My own opinion, perhaps less founded in actual experience/experimentation than you, would be that 7.5" rim width front might be the way to go, lowered... but then again, it could all come down to that offset... and specific rubber, what with a bit of negative camber... I wouldn't mind finding out I can go 8" without issue... just don't wanna sacrifice to find out the hard way it was 2mm too much!

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Posts: 6
posted November 13, 2003 08:34 PM

Some of you might find this site helpfull as well:


My '77 REPU's speedo is about 9 or 10 mph fast. I bought the truck from a friend that told me that the speedo has been replaced from an earlier model. The tranny is out of a '78 RX3SP.

It currently has "14 Toyota 4X4 wheels with 205 60's that rub on the suspension or fender apron when I turn the wheels all the way to the lock.

I would like to correct the speedo by tire size. Using this calculator, I'm leaning toward a 215/60R/16 or maybe even 225's.

I just wounder what would be the best wheel offset to get for that combo.


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Posts: 1259
posted November 14, 2003 09:15 AM

Don't have that spec for ya, but...

..I have a set of 205/15/50 BFG R-1's that are mounted on some (more-orless?) standard-offset 7.5" wide truck alu. mags, and with a stock-height suspension, they haven't rubbed under severe cornering... running KYB gas-a-just shocks, with vintage worn-out susp. components...
I figured the outside diameter to be about 'proper', nevermind the early 1st-gen tranny's differences...
Sounds like you've got altered rearend ratio, as well as alternate trans. gearing to consider... not that it's not a good thing, perhaps...
This combo would no doubt rub if the front were lowered.

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Posts: 1672
posted November 17, 2003 04:25 PM

Size: 15X7
Bolt Pattern: 6X5.5

These Wheels Fit:

SLX: 1996-2000

Escalade: 1999-2003

1/2 Ton P/U 1500 (4WD): 1988-1998

Avalanche: 2002-2003

Blazer Full Size (4WD): 1971-1991

Express Van 1500: 1996-2003

Silverado 1500 (2WD & 4WD): 1999-2003

Suburban 1500 (4WD): 1988-1998

Suburban 1500 (2WD & 4WD): 1999-2003

Tahoe (4WD): 1992-1998

Tahoe (2WD & 4WD): 1999-2003

Ram 50 Mini P/U: 1979-1991

Courier Mini P/U: 1977-1984

1/2 Ton P/U 1500 (4WD): 1988-1998

Denali: 1994-2003

Sierra 1500 (2WD & 4WD): 1999-2003

Suburban 1500 (4WD): 1992-1998

Yukon (4WD): 1992-1998

Yukon 1500 (2WD & 4WD): 1999-2003

Yukon XL 1500 (2WD & 4WD): 1999-2003

Passport: 1994-2002

QX4: 1997-2003

Amigo (2WD & 4WD): 1989-2000

Axiom: 2002-2003

Pick Up: 1980-2002

Rodeo: 1991-2002

Trooper: 1990-2002

Trooper II: 1984-1991

Vehicross: 1999-2003

6 Lug: 1973-1991

Grand Wagoneer: 1974-1991

J Series P/U: 1973-1987

LX450: 1996-1998

Pick Up (6 Lug): 1977-2003

Montero: 1988-2003

Montero Sport: 1997-2003

Pick Up (6 Lug): 1983-2003

Frontier: 1998-2003

Pathfinder: 1986-2003

Pick Up (2WD & 4WD): 1973-1997

Xterra: 1999-2003

Pick Up: 1975-1986

4 Runner: 1986-2003

Land Crusier: 1979-1998

Pick Up (4WD): 1964-1995


T-100 (2WD & 4WD): 1993-2003

Tacoma (4WD): 1995-2003

Tundra: 1999-2003

74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-

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Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted November 17, 2003 05:45 PM

Hey Brad, where'd you get these?

Mazda went to a five-lug when they replaced the b-series with rebadged Rangers in 1994.

Because in at least one case I'm virtually certain that mazda went to five-lug when they started selling the Ranger as the B-series in

Toyota pickups are also five-lug, though I don't know the years off hte top of my head its been just about forever I think. Its a popular swap for Nissan/Mazda minitruckers who want to go five-lug.

Those are the ones I see off the top of my head, I don't know about the others.

Orlando, Florida


'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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