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Index > Suspension > Thread: Stiff steering
Thread: Stiff steering
mazdarx605


Redlining
Posts: 314
posted January 06, 2013 02:15 PM

Stiff steering

Hey guys,

I was just out in the garage putting my 74 REPU up on jack stands to access what is involved in replacing the front springs with some used stock height ones I bought from a forum member. In doing this I moved the truck outside briefly to get a bunch of leaves and such out of the bed from my last yard clean up a few weeks ago. I noticed the steering was stiff which it usually is when I haven't used the truck much, or when the tires are low on pressure. Not a big deal, but once I got it up on the jack stands, and got all the tires off I turned the steering wheel all the way to one side to get a look at the backside of the calipers, and noticed it was still really stiff to turn. I have no idea why this is (it is cold, but above freezing here in MA), and thought maybe the steering box was out of or low on fluid. A quick check showed it was indeed full, so what else could it be? Old steering equipment in need of grease or replacement? Gremlins? Other?

I think I want to replace everything on the suspension that I can, but am unsure if this is necessary, and or expensive. Any help would be greatly appreciated on where to find these parts on a semi-budget. Also when I put in the stock height front springs will I need new shocks for the added height, or will they be fine? Maybe I should just replace them anyway?

I noticed this past summer that the passengers side rear was riding a bit lower than the drivers side which is odd because my fat ass sits on the drivers side all the time. What can I do about this if it doesn't prove to be related to the lowering blocks somehow? Could it be a sagged leaf spring pack? If so can I get custom ones made, or would I be best to get some used ones from someone parting out a truck?

Thanks,

Chris

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chuyler1


Hauling
Posts: 140
posted January 09, 2013 10:58 AM

Man, where did you get a set of stock springs? I've been asking around for a set for ages. I finally gave up and ordered some new ones for a Courier. After cutting them down to size the ride is OK but its still a little dippy and darty so I think it needs a better alignment and maybe some stiffening rubber shims.

Anyway, replacing the front shocks is pretty easy and you don't have to take apart anything else to remove them. When you have your old shocks out, push them in by putting some weight on it and feel it pull back out. If it moves smoothly and you don't see any leaks they are probably fine. Put them back in and go for a test drive. If things don't feel right you can quickly swap them out for new ones.

As for the rear, do a visual inspection and check the shocks. Maybe switch them to see if the sag switches sides. As for replacement leaf springs, good luck. I was looking for those too since mine have a leaf removed. Simply no parts for these trucks up here and no one wants to ship the big stuff.

Replacing all the other bits? I imagine it will get expensive quick so instead visually inspect everything and move the steering and wheels by hand to see if anything is wiggling. Use a grease gun on any greasable joints.

Also, let me know if you need a hand with anything. I'm not to far away...but unless the roads are clear of snow, sand and salt my REPU is staying in the garage!

       
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Brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted January 21, 2013 07:59 PM

quote:
Hey guys,

I was just out in the garage putting my 74 REPU up on jack stands to access what is involved in replacing the front springs with some used stock height ones I bought from a forum member. In doing this I moved the truck outside briefly to get a bunch of leaves and such out of the bed from my last yard clean up a few weeks ago. I noticed the steering was stiff which it usually is when I haven't used the truck much, or when the tires are low on pressure. Not a big deal, but once I got it up on the jack stands, and got all the tires off I turned the steering wheel all the way to one side to get a look at the backside of the calipers, and noticed it was still really stiff to turn. I have no idea why this is (it is cold, but above freezing here in MA), and thought maybe the steering box was out of or low on fluid. A quick check showed it was indeed full, so what else could it be? Old steering equipment in need of grease or replacement? Gremlins? Other?

I think I want to replace everything on the suspension that I can, but am unsure if this is necessary, and or expensive. Any help would be greatly appreciated on where to find these parts on a semi-budget. Also when I put in the stock height front springs will I need new shocks for the added height, or will they be fine? Maybe I should just replace them anyway?

I noticed this past summer that the passengers side rear was riding a bit lower than the drivers side which is odd because my fat ass sits on the drivers side all the time. What can I do about this if it doesn't prove to be related to the lowering blocks somehow? Could it be a sagged leaf spring pack? If so can I get custom ones made, or would I be best to get some used ones from someone parting out a truck?

Thanks,

Chris


For stiff steering it's usuallly tie rod ends, there are 4 of them, they wear. Could be idler arm, Also ball joints are at the end of the steering system. Before every autocross I grease all of these parts (Moog) and it's always easier to turn the wheel.

Check the RR shock. Or yeah it could be a leaf spring, they don't last forever. You can also get an add a leaf from Summit or Jegs. Or get yours rearched.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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mazdarx605


Redlining
Posts: 314
posted April 08, 2013 09:32 AM

So I am putting the drivers side back together, and have run into a few issues. One is getting the spring sitting perfectly in its rubber isolator in the lower control arm. The other is the spindle not moving through its steering arc with the suspension at full droop. If I jack up the suspension then I can move it but not with it at full droop.

Any idea as to why this is? Also the upper ball joint is mounted on the top side of the upper control arm, is that correct? The FSM isn't real clear on this, and the untouched passengers side has it like this as well. Also any tricks short of having the special mazda spring compressor to getting the springs back in the mount correctly?

Thanks,

Chris

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chuyler1


Hauling
Posts: 140
posted April 08, 2013 09:45 AM

Getting the springs back in is a pain. I just did this the other day to install some spring rubbers (gave me another 1/2" of height in the front).

I got mine in without using a spring compressor but it took numerous tries to get it seated right. The angle is just too steep if you have everything bolted up except the lower ball joint. The shop manual shows a photo of very small compressors. I was unable to find anything like them. The ones you can rent at Autozone are too big. Anyway, just keep twisting the spring until you find an orientation that will grab the lower rubber isolator enough to keep it from sliding out as you lift the control arm with a jack.

       
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bastard


1st Gear
!@#$%^&*()_+X-
Posts: 28
posted May 18, 2013 06:17 PM
Edited By: bastard on 18 May 2013 18:18

it could be the over tightening of the preload adjuster on the steering box. most people think they are taking the slop out of the box... but all they are doing is binding up the gears

       
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mazdarx605


Redlining
Posts: 314
posted May 21, 2013 03:29 AM

Okay, so I didn't like the idea of a steering component without a cotter pin(NAPA outers only used a nylock nut), so I ordered two new outer tie rod ends from rock auto, and they arrived today. I went out to put the drivers side on because that whole side is back together. Well I removed the NAPA part 269-2449 part which has a left hand thread like it should. Tried putting in the Moog part # ES2073L and it would not go in. Turns out it has a right hand thread.

The inner on rock auto shows as part #ES2074R which would be a RHT I assume, with the other part# being a LHT. Did I somehow screw up the tie rods, and have the wrong side on the in/out side? When they say inner and outer does that matter from side to side, or is an inner an inner, and an outer an out regardless of the side of the truck? Is this another sort of voodoo like my ball joint that was mounted wrong? NAPA's website shows the outer part number specs as having a LHT so I assume I have my truck together correctly.

I only did one side at a time so I didn't mix up the tie rods. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I called RA, and they tried getting a hold of Moog, but couldn't. They said they will try again tomorrow. Not sure where it is going to go as far as Moog is concerned.

Chris

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mazdarx605


Redlining
Posts: 314
posted June 04, 2013 05:25 PM
Edited By: mazdarx605 on 4 Jun 2013 17:26

Got the suspension all buttoned up, and had it aligned today. Wow I can't believe how much nicer it feels with the suspension at the stock height. Almost like driving a 4wd truck compared to the old height. Much nicer ride, and the steering is so much nicer. No fighting the wheel when trying to back into my garage.

Pics can be seen here because I don't remember how to attach them:

http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/Mazdax605/media/2013-05-29165121_zpsc8255425.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

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