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Thread: What are the best Suspension parts??
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ROTARYTONY
1st Gear
Posts: 15
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posted February 17, 2008 02:48 PM |
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What are the best Suspension parts??
SO ROTAY WIZARD. WHAT ARE THE BEST BUSHINGS , SHOCKS AND
SUSPENSION PARTS?? WANT A SMOOTH BUT ROAD RACE TYPE RIDE
THANKS ROTO WIZARD'S!!
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TONY
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kansei
Redlining
Wankelized
Posts: 423
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posted February 17, 2008 04:02 PM |
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Brad...
Wake up and help Tony out...
Neal.
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Neal A.E. Swigert
Greenville, Michigan
1974 REPU Resto Project
1976 808 Wagon
1977 Cosmo
1978 Savanna RX-7 GT
1980 Leather Sport RX-7
1980 Petty Targa RX-7 #11
1985 GSL-SE RX-7
1988 RX-7 10th Ann
1993 RX-7 VR Touring
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ROTARYTONY
1st Gear
Posts: 15
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posted February 17, 2008 05:27 PM |
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THANX BUD!!
I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO ALL MY NEW ROTO FRIENDS!!
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TONY
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted February 21, 2008 02:04 PM |
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Copy and paste rocks:
Front Suspension:
My coilovers for adjustable ride height. With 500lb spring (stock is 512). Search this forum for thead with pics and price if interested.
Bilstein Heavy Duty shock from 67-76 Camaro. Oval the bolt holes inward 1mm each hole with dremel.
1 1/8" front swaybar. Addco makes these and Quickor Suspension finally rememberd how to make it. (They used to make it, but then shipped my friend Courier versions. 3rd time they got it right).
All new MOOG bushings, balljoints, tie-rods with greaseable zerk fittings make it steer and respond a lot easier.
Don't lower the front so much that the lower a-arm points up. Screws up roll center and geometry. Keep it parallel to ground.
All of the new steering center links are for B1600/Courier, too short and have to be lengthened. The MOOG center link has a greaseable balljoint that hooks up to pinion arm - very nice.
Toe: 1/16" toe in is okay but to autocross you really need some toe out for it to dive into corner. Which compromises braking. Stock is 1/4" toe in!!!!! to increase understeer or reduce all that rear supension oversteer your pick.
The upper a-arm shaft has threaded ends to allow you to move that upper a-arm forward or back. To adjust caster. Crank it as far rearward as possible to get max caster. These area pain to move - I removed the upper a-arms entirely and used a 1/2" breaker bar with 3 foot pipe cheater bar.
Rear suspension:
Not much you can do here, it's leaf springs. I removed 2nd longest leaf to reduce spring rate AND lower about 1", AND it dearched spring slightly to reduce roll steer.
1" solid STEEL block. Never use aluminum blocks - they crack. Steel all the way and DJM suspension makes SOLID steel blocks that bolt TO the leaf pack via new centerbolt. Heavy but durable.
Buy some leaf spring CLAMPS you can find them at auto parts stores sometimes. It's a big wide u-bolt with a thick wide plate. Clamp together the the leaf pack in front of the axle - it increases fore-aft location of the axle, and reduces axle wrap: hop-hop-hop.
Removed 80lb rear bumper - less oversteer, also less rotation. Raised the rear of the truck about 3/4 inch though!
New stocker rubber leaf and shackle bushings. The right shackle did bind up on me so I bought some poly bushings - just need to make greaseable shackle bolts and new, thicker 3/8" thick shackles to use them.
http://www.superpro.com.au/home.html SPF0311K is part#.
Composite leafs would go a long way here. Have them made de-arched to lower the truck right w/o blocks. Save unsprung weight there, plus composite weights 60% less than steel. De-arching also reduces roll understeer. Monoleaf provides better lateral axel location and reduces axle wrap. And u can use longer shackles to raise back up the rear if needed, which ALSO reduces the change in rear leaf height during cornering -- which really messes things up.
4wheelpartswarehouse.com has u-bolts that work and great thick washers and Nylox nuts. I posted part number here earlier. Traditional lock washers cannot handle the tightening torque the FSM suggests.
There are long steel plates under the spring plates. That tie the bottom of u-bolts together. They're prolly bent or warped - straighten them.
I'm also working on poly leaf bushings w/o a center sleeve and greasable bolts. Thicker shackles.
The ride is much better than 35 year old stock and it does stick.
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ROTARYTONY
1st Gear
Posts: 15
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posted February 21, 2008 02:28 PM |
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LOADS OF INFO
WOW BRAD ,
THAT'S A LOT OF INFO , WHERE ARE YOU LOCATED , AND ARE
YOU INTERESTED IN DOING ALL THIS FOR ME , IS THERE NOT A SIMPLER WAY , AND DO YOU WANT TO SELL THAT REAR BUMPER
THANKS MY ROTO BUD!!
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TONY
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted February 21, 2008 06:47 PM |
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Hi Tony,
I'm in Torrance, CA - so cal - and am real busy just don't have time to install all that on your REPU. SORRY. Plus the lower balljoint and centerlink are a PAIN.
I can sell u the coilovers $475 shipped and if I get greaseable shackles and thicker shackles figured out I can sell or direct u towards that.
Rear bumper - holding onto it for now. And have good ideas for an aluminum one using 1/4" thick 4" square aluminum box tubing. Fraction of the weight.
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted February 22, 2008 04:52 PM |
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is there not a simpler way
Speed = Time + Money. How fast do you want to go?
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