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Index > Suspension > Thread: First Suspension Mods.
Thread: First Suspension Mods.
Mike_Rudy


1st Gear
Posts: 22
posted November 02, 2005 10:33 PM

First Suspension Mods.

Well now that i have figured out my engine mods, what should the first supension mods be to make my truck handle a bit better for a little bit of autocross? I was thinking first change shocks and about a 2 inch drop? Also, would it handle a bit better if the rear was softened up a bit, for a little bit more wieght transfer?

I figured it will be better to take the repu out autocrossing for my first couple times so if i do horrible, its not in my rx7 lol

       
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klaus42


Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
posted November 03, 2005 09:21 AM

You might wanna check out...

...the extensive handling-for-auto-x-related threads in this, and other sections here on the forum... Brad being our resident expert/developer/tester of suspension goodies...

       
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Mike_Rudy


1st Gear
Posts: 22
posted November 03, 2005 02:53 PM

Thanks, there some good info in there. I think i will go with a 2 inch drop and fit in the stickiest widest tires i can putin without rubbing

       
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Brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted November 04, 2005 10:27 AM

I need to align the front end, adjust the air pressure in rear shocks before next autocross. And would be happy to post info on it for all to know.

And I'm going to cave in and get some R compound tires. 225/50/15 Kumho Victoracers on 15x8 rims. My front Dunlop SP's roll the sidewall under cornering no matter what air pressure I put in there.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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Mike_Rudy


1st Gear
Posts: 22
posted November 04, 2005 08:48 PM

How would hoosier stock car tires work for autocross? I have a couple sets of those lying around. I was thinking of going with kumho 711 for a good street/autocross tire. Ya if you could post your set up and how it worked that would be awsome, i am trying to set my truck up with just the slightest bit of oversteer

       
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klaus42


Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
posted November 05, 2005 02:25 PM

All depends on the compound...

...and the sidewall stiffness... and the newness/# of heat cycles/abuse the tire has been through...

All I can say is, the stiffest possible sidewall up front will have you loving it... and, perhaps, re-adjusting your front end geometry...!

Sticky is good...

       
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Brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted December 19, 2005 10:38 AM

Worked on setting the toe this weekend. Took 8 adjustments to get it right!! She now has 1/8" toe in. Factory MAX is 1/4". First measurement, before adjusting, was 3/8" toe in!!!! No wonder it understeered and outer edge treadwear was accelerated and hot. Plus passenger side was toeing out much more than drivers side, no wonder it pulled to the right.

When setting toe, not only do you set the overall toe, but also ensure each side is toeing equally. I measured from outer tie rod zerk fitting to center of inner tie rod. On each side. 11 15/16" each side memory serving me.

Handeling is more confident, steering not as squirmish, no more understeer. Next is to play with air pressures in rear shocks and find some R compounds and light wheels.

Brad

quote:
I need to align the front end, adjust the air pressure in rear shocks before next autocross. And would be happy to post info on it for all to know.

And I'm going to cave in and get some R compound tires. 225/50/15 Kumho Victoracers on 15x8 rims. My front Dunlop SP's roll the sidewall under cornering no matter what air pressure I put in there.

       
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Mike_Rudy


1st Gear
Posts: 22
posted December 19, 2005 10:44 AM

I was reading in another post that you had air adjust rear shocks, might i ask what kind they are and how much you got them for? I am going to be replacing thoughs first because i am going to tow my race car with the truck

       
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Brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted December 19, 2005 02:11 PM
Edited By: Brad on 19 Dec 2005 14:15

Gabriel Hi-Jackers. Ebay $30.00. + dual fill air kit $25.00. Get the dual air line kit, otherwise if both shocks are tied in together via one valve, when one side compresses it'll increase the psi in the system and lift the other side which is unloaded.

Plus with dual valves there's less stress (psi)on each valve.

Definately upgrade front brakes. After towing my rx7 with my Amigo v6 for several years I would not even think of towing with REPU w/o upgraded brakes. Plus I don't think there are any tires that'll fit in REPU fenderwells that have the proper load rating. No ABS. Add a tranny cooler.


____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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Mike_Rudy


1st Gear
Posts: 22
posted December 19, 2005 07:13 PM

Ya my car with the trailer wieghts just under 2600 pounds so its not a super heavy load, but i am definatly looking at upgrade brakes, i know i will have disc's in the back soon because i am swapping in a turbo 13b in the summer.

       
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