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Index > Interior > Thread: Window Crank repair...
Thread: Window Crank repair...
nwaco


Redlining
Posts: 407
posted January 08, 2004 10:00 PM

Window Crank repair...

As I was poly blasting some window cranks the other day, I noticed that several of them have a lot of movement caused by wear on the back side of the crank mechanism where the hole that the shaft pokes through is out of round and sloppy.

Has anyone ever worked out a repair, or is replacement been the only solution. Out of six cranks I cleaned, I have three good ones, and three in need of fixing.

Before I go tearing one apart, I wonder if someone has been here before.

Anybody?

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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted January 08, 2004 10:38 PM
Edited By: rotormunky on 8 Jan 2004 22:45

Hey Ken,

I've had good luck with this stuff:

http://www.mscdirect.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=2001192&pcount=15&Product_Id=259868&Keyword=Y

Its not a direct application but I'll bet it works as just as well to form in the worn away portions of the fitting.

You can use that stuff or the Aluminum filled epoxy putty product from Devcon. I've used the liquid form of the epoxy and it was works pretty good for some stuff. The really nice thing about the epoxy is that its completely machinable. You can tap it, grind it, etc.


____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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nwaco


Redlining
Posts: 407
posted January 09, 2004 09:56 AM

I don't know Martin....

I don't know that I can make that work without the problem coming back soon.

I was thinking more on the line of having to drill out the four spotwelds, and removing the backshell of the crank housing. Then either repairing by welding in a new piece with another good hole, or fabbing up a new backshell.

I haven't taken one apart yet, but I may be able to make a new piece and just weld or bolt it up. The only problem is the hole gets sloppy and the crank then wobbles. After that, the side pressure of cranking only makes it worse.

I probably could just locate a cople of Courier mechanisms and be done with it, but.....

Maybe I'll just rip one apart this weekend.

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brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1665
posted January 09, 2004 07:06 PM

mabye we could just

use a larger shaft? I bet I could dremel one with the proper taper. Drill out the hole on the window crank mechanism that the shaft slides thru by 1mm . . .? ? ?

I've also had VERY good success with Devcon Aluminum Putty. Used it on intake manifolds, carburetor bodies, even body work! That stuff sticks and like rotormonkey said, it's very machineable.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted January 09, 2004 07:13 PM

I'm having a little trouble picturing exactly what the problem is without one to look at but I assume its the hole in the crank that plugs right onto the little shaft that protrudes through the door panel.

I know what you're saying about the wallowing back out of the hole, but you might be surprised with the aluminum epoxy product. Its a little harder than pot metal actually.

I'd spray some mold release on the shaft protruding through the panel, then fill the hole in the crank about 1/3 and squish it on. Then you can wiggle it off after it sets and grind the extra squished materal flat again. That should guarantee the tightest fit possible, even if the shape of the shaft has changed slightly over the years.

But that's mostly because I've got some of the Devcon in my cupboard. I just hate having to try to weld pot metal.



____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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nwaco


Redlining
Posts: 407
posted January 09, 2004 10:34 PM
Edited By: nwaco on 9 Jan 2004 22:43

Here are some pics...

Here is a picture of the problem. The first picture shows a normal pin and hole on a good mechanism.



The second picture shows a sloppy hole and a wobbly pin.



And the third shows the backshell that I think needs to be removed and the hole repaired and then the backshell replaced over new hole and welded or riveted in.



The more I look at it, the more I think I just need to find some more mechanisms. And go figure, all the drivers were the bad ones.

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brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1665
posted January 09, 2004 11:12 PM

A picture is worth a thousand words indeed!

okay, i see what you're saying now.

yeah, that is a problem.

could a backshell from a low usage passenger side be flipped around and riveted onto the drivers side?

otherwise this is a good candidate for junkyard hunt.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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nwaco


Redlining
Posts: 407
posted January 09, 2004 11:43 PM

I think you hit it Brad....

swap out a R/H unit for a L/H.

Upon closer examination, it looks like you can make either side out of the same parts. The spring is reversable in the slot, and the backshell and the frame appear to be the same parts. The arms have holes on either side for riveting depending on what side it is used on. The arms appear identical as well, but are marked as L or R, but I don't think it makes any difference.

Even though I may have to find new ones, it may not matter which side they are from. In fact, I think that since a passenger side will be likely to have less wear and is most likely to be available since the drivers side is the one that wears and is probably the first to be taken out of a yard.

Good thinking.

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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted January 10, 2004 12:11 AM

You aren't kidding brad, I had something totally different in my mind.

Definitely try swapping sides. Logically they would be reversible so they could just manufacture one piece and keep costs down.

The nice thing is that the mechanism should be widely available from b-series donors. So a good passenger side mechanism should do the trick. I'd definitely sockpile as many as you can tho if you do find a couple trucks in the boneyard.



____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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ovquick


Redlining
Posts: 253
posted January 10, 2004 07:13 PM

worn window regulater

Have you considered brazing or silver soldering a washer on to fix the hole then using a little longer pin?

       
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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted January 11, 2004 04:27 AM

quote:
Have you considered brazing or silver soldering a washer on to fix the hole then using a little longer pin?



A great idea. And a possible variation would be to pop off that plate and braze the washer to the backside of it and then rivet/braze the plate back onto the assembly. An extra step or two but then you wouldn't need to lengthen the pin so it evens out somewhat.


____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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nwaco


Redlining
Posts: 407
posted January 11, 2004 10:27 AM

Yea, that was basically my first theory.....

as well, until Brad had me examine it for similarity to the other side, and if one looks at the third picture, you can see that other side hole is sloppy too. Maybe I'll get a pic up of a good backshell piece.

Basically, both sides are sloppy, You can see in the pic how on the crank side, the crank is also loose in it's hole.

I still think replacement and maybe switching them over from Pass to Driver is the easiest method, unless of course, one couldn't find any.

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brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1665
posted January 11, 2004 07:22 PM

or just hammer and weld up that hole

and grind the inside diameter to proper size.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted January 12, 2004 04:48 AM

That'd work . . .

quote:
and grind the inside diameter to proper size.



But I'd be sure to use a harder filler metal than the stamped metal they used the first time. The harder the metal the longer it should last before wallowing out again.


____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted January 12, 2004 09:40 AM
Edited By: klaus42 on 12 Jan 2004 09:42

Or...

...the harder the metal, the quicker the shaft wears out... How about a self-lubricating, non-wearing (for all intents and purposes) resin/plastic insert that takes care of the problem for good?

       
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mwpayne1


Redlining
Posts: 239
posted April 25, 2007 09:02 PM

Thought I'd bump this and see if you guys found a solid solution to this issue. I've welded a washer in for now, any better ideas?

       
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xp882


Redlining
Posts: 287
posted October 03, 2016 02:22 PM

did the pass side to driver side swap today all you have to do is drill out the rivit on the arm and move it to the other hole like the driver side and turn the spring around works great

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