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Index > Interior > Thread: Push Button Start
Thread: Push Button Start
rotarynews


Moderator
Too Many Rotary Websites
Posts: 206
posted January 18, 2002 11:37 AM

Push Button Start

Well, I can no longer start the truck with the key, I have to jumper a wire to get the starter to spin. I'm thinking of putting a push-button starter, but don't want it to look out-of-place in the repu's interior. Can anyone recommend where to get a good stock-looking button?
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Jeff20B


Moderator
Posts: 661
posted January 21, 2002 01:02 AM

Yes, my friend's REPU had a button in the hole near the Ebrake handle. You know, the part under the rim of the dash with the rubber thing in it? The dash has one on each side. The holes are for poking a screwdriver up in there to loosen the screws that hold the dash on I think. Good luck.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7

       
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repuguru


Redlining
Posts: 319
posted January 21, 2002 06:32 AM

Ford Courier

Go to the Ford place and see if the switch is still available for Couriers of the same year. I bought one about 7 or 8 years ago for $50.

       
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Zebug


1st Gear
Wishing
Posts: 13
posted February 02, 2002 10:47 PM

Button Added

I had a problem with my key working in the ignition and had to add a button to spin the starter. Since I added the button I haven't had much of a problem with it. I think it is due to the heat around the switch, bu tnot sure. I installed my button under the dash on the right side next to the steering column. I had to add a small piece of sheet metal (2"x3") to hold the button and mount it to the dash.

          
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted February 04, 2002 12:17 AM

Worn-out contacts in the old switch... voltage drop due to resistance, and/or intermittent contact... internal due to wear, or external due to corrosion.

       
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Rotor


Revvin Up
certifiable rotorhead
Posts: 70
posted August 23, 2002 09:57 AM

It's not usually the switch. Most times it's bad connectionis on some of the many plug in connectors in the wiring harness. This is particularly true on auto trans Mazdas. Many early Mazdas have tremedous voltage drops in the plug in connectors. This can lead to a multitude of electrical woes!
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uncle-jim


Revvin Up
Posts: 64
posted August 23, 2002 02:52 PM

I can vouch for this problem. Every connector in your old Mazda should be taken apart, cleaned and reconnected.
I ran into this problem when I rebuilt my Rx-2. I found almost every connector with some degree of corrosion. I cleaned them all with Q-tips and Wd-40, then put a bit of anti-seize coumpound on all. All sorts of little, odd electrical problems, Radio noise, etc. disappeared.
One thing you really should change is the headlight circuit. In my case, this overheated the connectors to the extent that the plastic had melted and welded itself together. I put the headlights on relays, and the heating in the Ign. switch was gone. The other trick (if you really want to get into it), is to re-wire the alternator circuit between the battery and to the fuse block using some of this #8 flexible wire used for hi power audio amps - looks cool too! I have wiring diagrams for the Rx-2, 4, Cosmo, and all years Repu's. Write me if I can send you anything.
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Uncle Jim
72 Rx-2 Show Car; '77 REPU (250K & goin' strong) 2 - '76 Cosmo's

       
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Rotor


Revvin Up
certifiable rotorhead
Posts: 70
posted August 23, 2002 03:19 PM

Hey Unc.....how's about a copy of the 75 REPU diagram? I'd love to haveone!

I could also use a fuse box cover for a 75. Mine went walkabout several years ago, and I've not found one since. It fits only a 75 REPU.

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