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Thread: What stuff to use
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draggin_2600i
Redlining
Posts: 235
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posted May 19, 2002 11:30 PM |
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What stuff to use
I just yanked out the carpet from my REPU and it seems as if water had once gotten inside. I remeber changing the windshield seal with my Dad last year and I have not noticed any water since. anyway, I want to know if you guys recommend any specific products for stripping the floor of the rubber lining and paint so that I can repaint the floor. I also want to know if any of that Eastwood paint actually works good, that way I can buy some of that.
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tpfister
1st Gear
Posts: 22
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posted May 20, 2002 12:47 PM |
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Check behind and around the fuse block, thats where mine was leaking. Mine had been fitted with padding and carpet, so it was a mess. I used a wire wheel on the drill and then a rust killer/ metal conditioner on the rusted spots. I found a gallon of paint on bed liner on a clearance rack for $5 at AutoZone and used on the floorboard and it think it worked pretty well. I figured I could always put something over it if I needed too, and would seal out the water too.
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wankel_dreams
Redlining
Posts: 293
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posted May 20, 2002 03:06 PM |
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i was thinking exactly the same thing about the bed liner.
____________
74 wankel panther
77 REPU
79 rx7
89 Vert
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draggin_2600i
Redlining
Posts: 235
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posted May 20, 2002 04:47 PM |
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Thanx, for the info. I had thought of using the bedliner material, the only thing I was concerned about was getting the rust off. I went to my local hardware store and they did have some of that metal conditioner. now I just gotta get a couple of wire brush attachment for my drill and I shuold be good to go. how should I seal up the hole behind the fuseblock. should I sand it then weld up the holes or plug them with rubber grommets?
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tpfister
1st Gear
Posts: 22
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posted May 20, 2002 05:31 PM |
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I haven't done anything pemanent on mine yet just cleaned that area up. Mine has some sort of dry rotted rubber that was underneath the paint and it is way brittle. My remedy is keeping her parked in the garage till I get the exhaust done !!! Then I guess I will drive between the drops.
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tpfister
1st Gear
Posts: 22
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posted May 20, 2002 05:35 PM |
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By the way you will want to be well ventilated with both the rust conditioner and the liquid bed liner. I ain't been right since.........
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draggin_2600i
Redlining
Posts: 235
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posted May 20, 2002 05:42 PM |
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thanx alot tpfister. I have the truck parked outback in the sun. I know it deserves better but for now this will have to do. What do you recommend to remove that baked rubber material? it seem very tuff.
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tpfister
1st Gear
Posts: 22
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posted May 20, 2002 05:52 PM |
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I can pick mine apart with my fingers, try sliding a puddy knife under the edge and see what it looks like.
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repuguru
Redlining
Posts: 319
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posted May 21, 2002 06:36 AM |
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The rubber that they use to insulate under the hood shrinks up and becomes loose from the body. Then all the little seams are exposed. The undercoating trick works sometimes. You really have to make sure you can coat up in the nethereaches of the hood.
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rotarynews
Moderator
Too Many Rotary Websites
Posts: 206
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posted May 21, 2002 09:42 AM |
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Getting the rubber off
If the rubber is in OK condition in some parts, you need to make it hard in order to pop if off. I've used Dry Ice in the past to strip the floor of a RX-7, and it worked well, but was a lot of work....
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*rotarynews.com
*FD3s.net
*mazdarepu.com
The best way to predict the future is to invent it!
-- Tom Matano
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draggin_2600i
Redlining
Posts: 235
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posted May 22, 2002 04:49 PM |
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okay, got another question. I don't have the $$$funds$$$ for having the truck bead blasted, so can I just clean off as much of the rust as I can and coat the metal with something to stop it from spreading? What should I use? Do rustoleum products work well or is there something better.
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tpfister
1st Gear
Posts: 22
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posted May 22, 2002 05:38 PM |
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look in the body repair section in a good auto parts store thats where i bought the stuff i used
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Rotor
Revvin Up
certifiable rotorhead
Posts: 70
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posted August 23, 2002 02:15 PM |
 Edited By: Rotor on 23 Aug 2002 16:40 |
Permatex has a product called Extend that works pretty good to kill rust. I'd start with a wire brush to remove loose rust, then treat the rust with Naval Jelly. After that has been cleaned and rinsed out, treat the rust with the Extend, then paint it with a good primer. You can get etching primer from a good auto body supply house. Rust-oleum would be my second choice. Then repaint the floor using a good quality automotive enamel, or urethane paint. The bedliner spary should be applied after the paint cures.
The Guru hit on the answer again. The seam sealer dries up and shrinks, allowing water to seep in the seams. I used 3M spray undercoating on the firewall, making sure to get it into the corners on the horizontal part of the firewall. I've had no leaks since I did this to my 350,000+ mile 75 REPU. You can also get seam sealer, but it is harder to apply, as it doesn't come in spray cans, and is tough to get into the hidden corners with a caulking gun.
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ROTOR 
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Banzaitoyta
1st Gear
Posts: 22
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posted August 23, 2002 05:46 PM |
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Wire brush the loose rust off and apply a product called "ZERO RUST" it comes in quart, gl and aerosol cans. GOOD STUFF!
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted August 26, 2002 08:46 AM |
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If you don't get it all out, it will continue!
Rust never sleeps! Remove all traces thoroughly with a grinder or wire wheel...then clean, dry, and seal the surface. "Os-pho" phosphoric acid 'converts' rust to a black oxide, and preps the metal well...but if there's more than just a bit, it will have to be removed first! I'm fairly certain 'Extend' is a version of this same stuff...but my old rx-4 coupe had rust come back thru two years after--so watch out! Primering over such treatments is not enough...unless, perhaps, you live in the desert...
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