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Index > Engine/Drivetrain > Thread: Which is easier?
Thread: Which is easier?
ericryan


Revvin Up
Posts: 61
posted August 05, 2011 06:46 PM

Which is easier?

Replacing an entire '74 differential to a '77, or swapping out just the final drive gears from a 4.63 to a 3.90?

Reason I ask is because I'm sure it would cost a crapload more in freight to ship an entire differential than it would be for a box with some gears in it, I'm just weighing out my options and seeing what I should have my heart set on.

       
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sparky


Redlining
Posts: 299
posted August 07, 2011 03:48 PM

Replace the entire assembly. If you just do the gears then you'll have to replace pinion bearings and crush tube.
____________
'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition

       
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ericryan


Revvin Up
Posts: 61
posted August 07, 2011 04:13 PM

Thanks. That's what I feared the most.

       
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Brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted August 08, 2011 04:14 PM
Edited By: Brad on 8 Aug 2011 16:15

Replacing the whole pumpkin is less labor for you. But, the bearings are worn and possibly worn out so why not go thru it anyways? It's also likely the bearing preloads are loose.

And, I found out the crush tube can be streached and reused. Who knew?

I got the bearings from Rock Auto at good prices, I think it was $200 labor.

Use the black RTV or better yet auto parts stores sell a diff and gear oil specific RTV that's phenominal. Silver tube with green lettering. "The Right Stuff" is excellent too.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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ericryan


Revvin Up
Posts: 61
posted August 08, 2011 06:40 PM

This would be my first full rear-end rebuild, that is IF I choose to do it to either rear end (haven't ordered the '77 diff. yet). Is a shop press completely necessary, or can the bearings and such be dealt with using only a rubber mallet, chisel, and some elbow grease?

On a side note, I just rebuilt all 4 corners of the brakes, using DOT-5 brake fluid at $29 a quart, using 1.5 quarts. Please tell me I can keep my existing wheel cylinders/shoes! I can't afford to lose any of this fluid.

       
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Brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted August 08, 2011 08:00 PM

The bearings are pressed on using tons of force. You need a press and bearing pullers made for the job. And many measuring tools. To get an idea, look here:

http://gearinstalls.com/

Why in the world did you use Dot-5? 4 is all you need. There are high temp Dot-4's if needed.

       
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ericryan


Revvin Up
Posts: 61
posted August 08, 2011 08:13 PM

DOT-5 resists all moisture and has the highest boiling point.

I figured it would save all 6 of the cylinders and 2 calipers from unnecessary internal rusting.

       
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mattraver


Revvin Up
Posts: 95
posted August 09, 2011 02:17 AM

dot 5 is a no no ,its for a corvette for instance,silicone base .you will screw up your brabing system ,clean EVERYTHING with rubber and flush the hard lines .dot 4 synthetic has a high enoughf boiling point .as for rear end ,put a new ring and pinion in it ,its easy .any shop will install the ring and pinion for about 100.00 the only thing is when removing both axels theyre is a procedure for the shims on the axel ends ,its in any repu shop manual . good luck

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