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Thread: Driveshaft drop trick?
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mwpayne
Hauling
Posts: 195
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posted March 20, 2008 09:16 PM |
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Driveshaft drop trick?
Alright, I'm so close to getting this tranny swapped it ain't funny, so I figure out I need to drop the driveshaft at the pumpkin end. After much grunting and cussing, I get all 4 bolts out, then..nothing. Is there another bolt somewhere I'm overlooking? I've pounded on that thing from every direction, even pushed on it with a jack. I think the truck would lift before it would break loose. I even gave it a stern look....
Alright guys, what the heck am I doing wrong here?
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datsunrides
Revvin Up
Posts: 58
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posted March 20, 2008 09:32 PM |
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Is the center support loose? It may have a bit of tension. My driveshaft was a little stuck but a couple of smacks from a hammer and it poped loose. And yes, only 4 bolts.
Mark
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mwpayne
Hauling
Posts: 195
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posted March 20, 2008 10:28 PM |
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Yep..
Center support was no trouble at all..got it just hanging there. Might have to take a torch to the thing.
Now that I KNOW there's nothing else holding it, me and it are gonna have a come to Jesus meetin' come tomorrow...if I can find my BFH:)
Thanks!
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted March 21, 2008 08:40 AM |
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they're notorious for not wanting to come off. torch would be a great idea if the bfh don't work.
before putting it back on, put a thin coat of anti-seize on the flange so it wont rust or stick next time.
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Klaus44
Redlining
Posts: 365
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posted March 21, 2008 10:01 AM |
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Try not to damage anything...
...in the process! Seriously...
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mwpayne
Hauling
Posts: 195
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posted March 21, 2008 11:33 AM |
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Only my F&#@ thumb!
Finally persuaded it to move..it was a major biotch..really.
Now, I'm not only OLD, I'm a wuss, so I'm waiting on #1 son to come home before I pull out the tranny. Way to heavy for poor lil' old me...:(
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted March 21, 2008 11:36 AM |
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i bungee cord the trans so it drops down slowly. or put a floor jack under it.
roll it onto a flattened cardboard box and it'll slide easily.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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mwpayne
Hauling
Posts: 195
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posted March 21, 2008 03:19 PM |
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Well, #1 son is about as much help..
As a screen door on a submarine. Anyhow, with the help of a spare jack stand, I worked 'er off. I decided to wait till tomorrow to do the swap, ordered a new throwout bearing overnight from advance auto. The one in the tranny I'm going to use is pretty gritty/noisy..I'd rather not experience this much fun again too soon.
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Klaus44
Redlining
Posts: 365
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posted March 21, 2008 05:30 PM |
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Now is the best time...
...to clean/grease your clutch actuating fork pivot/friction points, as well. Also, consider replacing oil seals (and bearings?) in both tailshaft as well as the clutch end of the trans. at this time -- cheap insurance.
A D&R with Amsoil full synth gear lube is most highly recommended!
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mwpayne
Hauling
Posts: 195
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posted March 21, 2008 06:46 PM |
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Partially ahead of ya here, Klaus. I ordered a trans kit months ago from mazdatrix. It had both seals and a gasket, so those are installed and good to go. I picked up my personal favorite manual trans lube, pennzoil syncromesh, today. Amsoil may indeed be better, but I've had great success with pennzoil in my 1st gen trannys. This stuff has quieted scratchy sychros that had been running redline, which many RX7 1st gen'ers swear by.
Plus it was handy at autozone..:)
I'll be sure and lube those points you mentioned, thanks.
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mwpayne
Hauling
Posts: 195
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posted March 23, 2008 03:37 PM |
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Here's a lesson...
Should have opened the box with the bearing at the store. I opened it the next day, it had obviously been used, stuffed back into the ripped plastic bag, and returned.
Nope, not going in MY truck...
Crap, now it's gonna be a week because I'm leaving tomorrow for a 5 day work deal, part was reordered.
Interesting, though..this bearing looks like it'll fit and all, but it's a good deal smaller than the original.
I guess it's ok?
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Klaus44
Redlining
Posts: 365
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posted March 23, 2008 04:44 PM |
Edited By: Klaus44 on 23 Mar 2008 16:46
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Guessing is for gamblers.
Take your micrometer out and measure!
Always best to compare replacement parts to what came out -- (assuming what came out wasn't wrong to begin with)...
An industrial bearing Co. *may* be helpful, as well...
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mwpayne
Hauling
Posts: 195
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posted March 23, 2008 04:55 PM |
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Well, with stuff this old, guesswork is a part of the fun, I suppose. The bearing out of the 74 trans looks nothing like the bearing out of the 80 5 speed trans I'm installing, that makes sense. I ordered a bearing for an '80 RX7. It looks like it will slip over the shaft and lock in place, it's just thinner. Once I get the new one I'll play around with it with the fork in place. If there's any doubt, I may try to order the $45 dollar one instead of the $25 one. Different manufacturers, I reckon.
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datsunrides
Revvin Up
Posts: 58
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posted March 23, 2008 05:13 PM |
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I compared the stock REPU one with the RX7 one and they seem to be interchangable, just a different design. I stayed with the REPU one.
Mark
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Klaus44
Redlining
Posts: 365
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posted March 23, 2008 05:40 PM |
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Your mention of thinner vs. thicker bearings reminds me of the slight difference in length between 'oldschool' and 1st-gen rx-7 clutch slave actuating rods... FWIMBW.
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kansei
Redlining
Wankelized
Posts: 423
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posted April 09, 2008 08:18 AM |
Edited By: kansei on 9 Apr 2008 08:18
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Don't forget...
That the REPU and SA release bearings are of different offsets at the release hinge point. When I changed out my bearing (I also have an SA 5spd), I compared it to the SA one, and it was fairly noticeable that the combo of the one bearing and it's associated release fork extended a different throwout length than the other. I believe it has to do with compensating for the distance between the input shaft end and the pivot point for the fork on the two transmission styles. Basically, the REPU release fork and bearing on the SA shaft yielded the different result, and vice versa.
Neal.
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