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Thread: help?
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sodrifter
Newbie
Posts: 3
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posted December 28, 2007 11:27 AM |
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help?
i need some help finding out if my truck runs. it had been sitting for ten years. i only have spark on one rotor.we tested the coils so im thinking points and condesers.i know you can swap rx7 dist. parts on it. but i just want to find out if it runs not locate and swap parts in.any suggestions would be helpful. im sure many of you have found trucks this way. i should also add that the motor is damn near spotless. not a leak anywhere. the antifreeze was even new looking still.
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Klaus44
Redlining
Posts: 365
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posted December 28, 2007 12:42 PM |
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Location?
Whoever's closest to where you're at may be able to lend a hand...?
No matter how clean, nothing was improved by sitting. Obviously, you will need spark for at least both leading plugs for your engine to run... Test your plug/coil wires with your multimeter, inspect/clean or replace your plugs, check your points and clean/adjust as needed, don't forget to scrape the cap/rotor contacts and clean battery connects... as well as checking fuses/cleaning ground connects. Caig/Cramoline 'De-Ox-It' type electronics contact cleaner can be a real lifesaver! Only takes a wee little bit...
Make sure you've got enough clean oil in there, and that usable fuel is filling your float bowl. If your fuel pump is weak, clean those electrical connects, too.
If you have spark, but it won't catch, your best bet might be to get a good push to about 25 MPH, and drop it into 2nd. (Don't forget to have your ignition switch on 'run'!)
That is, if your ignition switch didn't need attention as well...
Good luck!
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dhood
Hauling
Posts: 134
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posted December 28, 2007 01:06 PM |
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I bot a truck that was running before being parked for about a year. It could'nt get the compression up enuf to start since some of the seals had stuck to the rotor grooves and the starter couldn't spin them fast enought to break em loose. So I put some trans fluid down the carb and cranked some more. Eventually it started but smoked like the Persian Gulf War for half an hour. The fluid helped to loosen the seals. Check the compression before you do this by squirting a little oil in the spark pugs holes first.
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Klaus44
Redlining
Posts: 365
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posted December 28, 2007 02:04 PM |
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AmsOil 'Power Foam'...
...does a *great* job of cleaning out the carbon (like might've caused those stuck seals).
To do it properly, however, does require that the engine be running, and nicely tuned, too...
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted December 29, 2007 05:42 PM |
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i agree with hood and klaus. i bought a case of amsoil power foam, it is truly a good find. cleans the intake tract, engine internals, spark plugs.
after atf the motor, let is sit for a few days to soak and clean. remove the exhaust manifold if possible and turn over by hand so that gunk will exit the motor and not smoke like iraq in the exhaust pipe. the neighbors will hate it.
if you don't want to take that manifold off, then removing the spark plugs helps too just clean the plug holes out with carb cleaner.
new plugs help here too, bur8eq14. the 8 heat range is real nice for starting and burning off crud. 7's are better.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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Klaus44
Redlining
Posts: 365
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posted December 29, 2007 06:10 PM |
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Consider this:
What if... whatever is causing the lack of spark on one rotor is the *only* reason your REPU was parked 10 years ago? Might be... ;)
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dhood
Hauling
Posts: 134
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posted December 29, 2007 06:40 PM |
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If everything else is ok I think the engine should turn with only one rotor sparking. But before doing the compression check it makes sense to get the second rotor firing. This is the simple known problem. Do you mean to say you don't have any spark at all at the end of the wire to ground? Or do you get spark ther but the plug won't fire when all is hooked up? How did you test the coil?
If spark is getting to the end of the wire, sometimes there isn't enuf juice to fire a plug under load. Swap leading and trailing coils and see if the problem switches too. If you have a cheapo spark tester, put it in line and keep screwing out the gap until the spark doesn't jump anymore, and measure the gap to see how far off it is from spec (or hook up to a scope to measure the firing resistance.) Make sure the wires aren't shorting to themselves, or have any leaks. Even a little dirt on the outside of the wire can cause a leak, or torn rubber boot will leak to ground at or near the plug.
If you aren't getting any spark from wire to ground then keep testing back from the plug to the coil by eliminating each part to see where the open or short exists and fix or replace the parts where the problem is found.
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bstrange99
Newbie
Posts: 9
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posted December 29, 2007 11:04 PM |
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I agree with dhood. Switch the leading and trailing coil wires. It's a quick and simple way to deternine a bad coil. REMEMBER....our motors get a large portion of thier compression from oil injection. If you have ten year old oil in it, you won't do it any favors on the start up. Change the oil and pour a little MMO down the carb to help boost the initial compression. Also after a LONG LONG rest, you may very well need to pull start it. Turn the key on, put it in second, don't touch the clutch and tow it about 25mph for as long as it takes.
Good luck
____________
'83 gsl with an '86 6port 13b, racing beat exhaust, custom fab'd intake, Sterling modified Nikki carb, gsl-se suspension, 2gdf ignition, Centerforce clutch, short shifter, and obviously ALL EMISSION EQUIPMENT REMOVED!!
'76 REPU getting a new lease on life starting....NOW!
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repuzentn
Redlining
Posts: 225
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posted December 30, 2007 06:27 PM |
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Amsoil 'Power Foam'
quote:
...does a *great* job of cleaning out the carbon (like might've caused those stuck seals).
To do it properly, however, does require that the engine be running, and nicely tuned, too...
Where can I get this product? How do I use it?
____________
-'74 Phoenix Blue
-Daily driver ;-)
-Stock GSL-SE engine
-Stock Nikki carb.
-4-spd tranny (time for a
TII one, synchro's are
grinding)
-Racing Beat road-race
headers
-RB 20" pre-silencer
-REV25 Rotor muffler
-Gilmer drive pulleys(fun
while it lasted!)
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bstrange99
Newbie
Posts: 9
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posted December 30, 2007 07:03 PM |
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quote:
quote:
...does a *great* job of cleaning out the carbon (like might've caused those stuck seals).
To do it properly, however, does require that the engine be running, and nicely tuned, too...
Where can I get this product? How do I use it?
Amsoil dealers. It's usually not found in any of the big chains.
To use it, just start to motor and spray about a third of the can down the carb (WARN YOUR NEIGHBORS!!!! It will smoke BAD!!!) After the smoking stops shut the motor off and spray a little more down the carb, turn the motor one full revolution, spray some more, turn another full revolution and spray some more. Let it sit til the motor cools, then start it up and drive it for about 5 miles. Don't be afraid of rpm's.
____________
'83 gsl with an '86 6port 13b, racing beat exhaust, custom fab'd intake, Sterling modified Nikki carb, gsl-se suspension, 2gdf ignition, Centerforce clutch, short shifter, and obviously ALL EMISSION EQUIPMENT REMOVED!!
'76 REPU getting a new lease on life starting....NOW!
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repuzentn
Redlining
Posts: 225
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posted December 30, 2007 08:34 PM |
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Amsoil 'Power Foam'
^Thanks for the info.
____________
-'74 Phoenix Blue
-Daily driver ;-)
-Stock GSL-SE engine
-Stock Nikki carb.
-4-spd tranny (time for a
TII one, synchro's are
grinding)
-Racing Beat road-race
headers
-RB 20" pre-silencer
-REV25 Rotor muffler
-Gilmer drive pulleys(fun
while it lasted!)
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted December 31, 2007 09:00 PM |
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I'd recommend verifying if you have spark. I purchased a used truck with very limited history from previous owner. Truck was sitting for over a year. I spent alot of time troubleshooting suspected ignition issues with difficult starting of engine. The problem ended up being a small coolant leak into the rotor chamber. When the engine was cold the leak would occur and ground out spark plugs. Good luck getting it running.
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Klaus44
Redlining
Posts: 365
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posted January 02, 2008 12:36 AM |
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Actually...:
quote:
quote:
quote:
...does a *great* job of cleaning out the carbon (like might've caused those stuck seals).
To do it properly, however, does require that the engine be running, and nicely tuned, too...
Where can I get this product? How do I use it?
Amsoil dealers. It's usually not found in any of the big chains.
To use it, just start to motor and spray about a third of the can down the carb (WARN YOUR NEIGHBORS!!!! It will smoke BAD!!!) After the smoking stops shut the motor off and spray a little more down the carb, turn the motor one full revolution, spray some more, turn another full revolution and spray some more. Let it sit til the motor cools, then start it up and drive it for about 5 miles. Don't be afraid of rpm's.
...you'll want to start by making sure *everything* is tuned up and ready to run as well as possible, then warm up your engine fully. Then, while running, spray the entire can down your carb -- keep spraying after it chokes the motor, just fill up carb and intake with the rest of the can. Let it sit until the foam dissipates a bit, don your respirator with proper cartridges in place, and fire that sucker back up... and look out for the *nasty* black cloud! Keep it running, and immediately proceed to drive at least 50 spirited miles -- more if possible. It will keep running better, perhaps even over the course of the next 500 miles... (or at least that was my experience).
(Or, just read the directions on the label.)
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