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Thread: Where to get plugs and wires?
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted July 26, 2006 05:49 PM |
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Where to get plugs and wires?
I got a set of NGK's a year ago and can't remember where. Maybe ebay, but can't find them now. Any sources?
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted July 26, 2006 09:44 PM |
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mazdatrix.com
sparkplugs.com
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RotaryRob
Revvin Up
Posts: 53
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posted July 27, 2006 10:08 AM |
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Any good motorcycle shop will have NGK plugs too....
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AtkinsDan
1st Gear
Posts: 17
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posted January 17, 2007 01:51 PM |
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dont forget about me WWW.AtkinsRotary.com
Dan
____________
1988 Supercharged Rotary
powered B2200 !!!RIP!!!
1982 supercharged Rx7
2005 mazda 6 wagon
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted January 17, 2007 03:23 PM |
 Edited By: mwpayne1 on 17 Jan 2007 15:24 |
NOW you tell me....:)
Hey, you got coils? Doing the elec dizzy upgrade..
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repu510
Hauling
Posts: 141
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posted January 17, 2007 03:27 PM |
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plugs and wires
Not to stir up any controversy or step on anyones toes, but talking to the guys at Mazdatrix, they've actually used Autolites with good success and I think you can get those almost anywhere. They even have dyno results to prove it!
As far as wires go, I've used everything from stock, NGK, Magnecore, to Racing Beat, and honestly, I couldn't tell/feel the difference between any of them. I've been really happy w/ websites like Options Auto Salon. The guys there are very knowledgeable when it comes to aftermarket parts, including rotaries. The prices are fair and shipping is fast.
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted January 17, 2007 03:50 PM |
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I've always used NGK because they were OEM, look good, and pretty cheap. In a pinch, though, I wouldn't be afraid of autolites. I plan on getting whatever Advance Auto has for coils (Accel, I think) for my dizzy upgrade.
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Tom93R1
Redlining
Posts: 458
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posted January 17, 2007 07:49 PM |
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I get my NGK plugs at Checker. For wires I use the Accel do it yourself kit for a V8.
____________
'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted January 18, 2007 11:43 AM |
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You couldn't pay me to use Autolites!!!
Not even in a piston-powered vehicle. I'm finished having issues with plugs; back when I made that mistake, *they* were the culprit...
Anyone using any 'single side wire' type plug in a rotary with 'good' results is likely either lucky, effectively compensating in other ways, or carefully tuning/only interested in a certain range of performance suited to those plugs, IMHO. The very nature of the rotary/shape of it's combustion zone/speed of movement of the charge thru said zone logically points to the effect the relative position of an installed sigle-sidewire type plug design can have. I think there were very real reasons the Mazda engineers decided to go with a 4-prong plug...
That said, NGK makes the best. ! Why go anywhere else?
I can also recommend their newer, 'no side wire' 'cross cut' design 'BUR' series plugs... they work really well, and last longer too.
Going over them with a bit of B-12 chemtool and a wire brush, as needed, will keep you running for a good long time.
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted January 18, 2007 06:02 PM |
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best thing i've found to clean spark plug is:
http://www.eascosales.com/General_Purpose_Cleaners-ProForce_Oven_Grill_Fryer_Cleaner_1_gal_22_oz.html
Lowe's carrys it and i think home depot too.
works wonders cleaning tailpipe and driveway stains. better than castrol super clean.
for the single wire side plugs, the ones ngk makes for rotaries are the best plug out there for making power. and they should be at $35 each! you can choose your heat range all the way up to 11.5. I got 11.0's to work great on the 12j-bridge dyno'd 205 to the ground.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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repu510
Hauling
Posts: 141
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posted January 18, 2007 09:21 PM |
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the NGK myth continues...
I'm guilty of using NGKs too. Primarily because everyone else has recommended them... and that's what comes from the factory. But I've had bad NGKs with cracked porcelain too. and I've used Bosch and Denso as well. I haven't used Autolites yet, but I'm definitely curious enough to try... they're definitely cheaper than NGKs!! I'm usually open to trying some new things as long there is some tangible support.
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted January 19, 2007 10:01 AM |
Edited By: klaus42 on 19 Jan 2007 10:03
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Whatever.
...but you can't tell me that the position *any* single-side-wire plug ends up being seated in the housing doesn't influence the way the flame front propagates throughout the combustion zone --or not-- at the (literally!) supersonic speeds acheived by the mixture as it travels through a rotary at Hi RPM's.
Logic and Physics still apply. If there are certain single-wire plugs that feature technical developements that have made this factor irrelevant, great... but I'd still rather pay half as much per plug to get the same, or nearly the same result -- (and, I'll wager, a longer life span to boot.)
Run what you prefer, by all means. I did my own round of home testing years ago, and confirmed for myself that the different types/styles of plug yielded different powerband benefits/detriments vs. each other, in the same engine.
...and I've never had a problem, *yet*, with NGK's... something I only wish I could say about past experience with those 'other' plugs.
Bosch Platinums *do* have a valid rotary application: They're the plug to install in an old, high mileage oil burner... especially when initially trying to revive one... because they don't foul as quick.
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bliffle
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted January 20, 2007 12:14 PM |
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I usually run NGKs but I'm trying Autolite 2526 in the 85SE upon recommendation of a guy who claimed he solved his fouling problems with them. They worked good enough that I put a set of 2626 in an FB. No problems for the last 4-6 months. The Autolites have a solid annular electrode which promises to offer more electrical routes than even the 4-electrode NGKs. Since noone gaps plugs themselves anymore, it seems to be a workable idea.
But for sure you need multiple electrodes. However, I think the NGKs I have in the REPU are 2-electrode.
Always make sure any plug you install does not protrude into the combustion chamber and clip the apex seals!
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted January 20, 2007 12:22 PM |
Edited By: klaus42 on 20 Jan 2007 12:23
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Caveat:
All of my own testing/experience was with carbureted, normally-aspirated engines; stands to reason different things might apply for injected, etc. engines--.
Doesn't fouling have more to do with plug heat range, richness of mixture, (driving 'style'...), how much spark energy is actually making it *to* the plug, timing/dwell, and oil usage... than anything else?
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TimPA136
Redlining
Posts: 325
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posted March 31, 2007 04:02 PM |
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NGK Iridium IX plugs
I just installed the IRIDUM IX "BR7EIX" plugs I got from "RACING BEAT". So far so good. I put same heat range in leading and trailing and I have a stock ignition. I will post up date if I feel a missfire.
PS. I was using Standard NGK 4 sided plugs.
Tim
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