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Thread: My motor may be toast?
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted June 28, 2004 07:55 PM |
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My motor may be toast?
I hope this doesn't get too long. I have no history on my 77 REPU with 4-port 13B. It has a rebuilt motor. I have had trouble with starting for a long time. I finally figured out that my spark plugs have been getting fouled from water/coolant. I noticed a white cloud after start up. The motor would seal up fine after it warmed up. The problem has been getting worse. About the last thing I have to check is the tension bolts. Has any one had any trouble like this before? It doesn't smoke or use water when it's warm. This is a real bummer. I wanted to nurse this engine along until my REPU goes emmissions exempt. Thanks, Sparky
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'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted June 29, 2004 08:06 AM |
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Don't 'nurse' anything!!!
As you've stated, it hasn't been getting any better... So, if you wish to try and save more of the bits from the scrap heap, don't run it until you've repaired it!
I take it you've checked/replaced the intake manifold water O-rings?
Hate to say it, but odds are, your motor was overheated, and your housings are no longer within tolerances...
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that I'm wrong!
(Lemme guess--It's the rear rotor that blows most, if not all of the water...?)
Unfortunately, one of the effects of overheating a rotary engine is that the rotor housings are literally crushed between the steel plates as everything expands... Then when it shrinks back down, they warp... enough to be trashed.
Tolerance spec's. are what they are for good reason...
(Hoping I'm wrong!!!)
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bliffle
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted June 30, 2004 08:58 AM |
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This is an old problem with overheated rotaries: The internal water seals fry and water seeps into the chambers.
There is a common 'temporary' fix that RX-7 owners have used for years. I applied this fix 6 months ago on my 83FB with 120k miles, and it's still working fine. I know this because there is no white smoke on startup, and if I unscrew the rad cap after the car sits unused for 2 days I get a satisfying PFFT indicating that the system is sealed.
For the complete rundown on my experience, go to www.rx7club.com and search the "1st gen forum" for a subject containing "prestone" authored by "bliffle".
I think this link gets you there:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=266026&highlight=prestone
One more thing: after the treatment be sure to put coolant or some kind of anti-corrosion in the radiator to prevent corrosion of iron parts like the water pump. Don't run plain water after the treatment.
It's sweet getting your REPU past emissions testing. My 74 is so much easier to deal with absent the tough CA emissions requirement.
B
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted June 30, 2004 04:00 PM |
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Thanks Bliffle
Wow! Great read and instructions. I think I'll give it a try. I just hope I can get the engine started. Last time I tried the motor would almost start but the plugs would foul a couple second after ignition. I gave up after cleaning the plugs 10 times. I'll let you know how it goes.
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'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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bliffle
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted July 01, 2004 02:56 AM |
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Is your REPU a points type ignition or electronic?
For points you need plugs gapped at .025.
For electronic you might try Autolite 2626 (fixed .050 gap): one of the guys claims these are easiest starting. And they're cheap.
B
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted July 01, 2004 07:13 PM |
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I'm using the 1st gen RX7 ignition system. The funny thing is I have been troubleshooting no spark on my leading plugs for a long time using a timming light. I recently realized that that my plugs are grounding out because they are water fouled. Hopefully this weekend I'll try the blockweld treatment.
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'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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rotarydave
Hauling
Posts: 108
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posted July 04, 2004 04:07 PM |
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please don't use the autolite plugs you will find that it is very easy to put them in too far and you will never notice it, that is until you have to do a rebuild and find out that your rotors and all your apex seals are trashed, yes the NGKs cost alot more than the others but they are also soo much better than the others as well, if you are having problems with fouling them keep one spare set that is always clean.
I am not sure why no one in the rotary community has not sued autolite yet...... we have torn down thousands of engines at Atkins Rotary and cringe everytime we see a core with them in there.
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bliffle
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted July 04, 2004 11:49 PM |
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Thanks for the warning about Autolites! In any case, I would have miked the plugs before installing them, as I have been aware of the danger of using over-long plugs in rotaries.
B
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted July 05, 2004 10:52 AM |
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Autolites suck. There are only a couple hardcore folks out there that think it's cool to save a couple bucks to buy an inferior product that they then need to modify so they fit without munching apex seals. SPRT comes to mind. Of course he's highly opinionated about all aspects rotary or otherwise. What works for him may not work for anybody else.
I'll never put autolites in any of my engines.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted July 05, 2004 01:23 PM |
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Me either!
NGK, all the way! :)
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted July 11, 2004 10:40 AM |
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I think i fixed it.
I did the treatment and after let the truck sit for 5 days. Went to start it up yesterday and had no problems. Thanks Bliffle, you saved me a motor. I really didn't want to do the new motor thing until i don't have to worry about emmissions. One question, Do you think I should leave the Block-Weld in the cooling system?
Side note: I used the purple power degreaser from pep-boys to remove a real bad peanut butter stain from carpet. The stuff is awesome as a cleaner. Thanks for all the help. Sparky.
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'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted July 12, 2004 02:09 PM |
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glad the motor was saved!
I would definately drain the block weld/water solution, flush motor with water, then refill with water and coolant 50/50.
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted July 13, 2004 06:56 AM |
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I'd be curious...
...as to the longer-term reports on how many miles this kind of fix survives...
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bliffle
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted July 13, 2004 09:52 AM |
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The only number I've heard is two years. Mines been going 6 months so far.
B
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