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Index > @ the Pickup Bed (General Topics) > Thread: My first day with the truck
Thread: My first day with the truck [' This thread is 2 pages long: (1) 2 ']
Fd3BOOST


Hauling
Posts: 114
posted December 21, 2003 05:02 PM

My first day with the truck

I got it home is one piece. I hauled it on a trailer.
First thing I noticed is that this truck is SMALL!!
Especially after sitting in it. I am 6'1". So my knees are all the way up to the dash and the steering wheel is almost in my lap.
I got sorta used to it though and it aint so bad.

Next, Rust, rust and more rust. This truck has rust on just about every panel. The tailgate is a lost cause. I need new rocker panels. I think I can salvage the rest.

Now, my problems so far. I tool the battery out to charge it and blew the main fuse behind the seat (the top 50amp one)
I jimmy rigged a wire between the two points to get it to work for now.
So where to find that fuse?
Secondly, I have no lights whatsoever. Interior, brake, headlights, signals. Nothing.??
Is that a common problem that I should be aware of?
I will have to figure that out amongst everything else.

Other than that I love it!
Interior is in decent shape. The seats are torn of coarse.
The headiner, door panels are in good shape.
The dash is cracked. None of the climate controls work.
No radio.
All of the plastics on the exterior are in good shape.
Not missing any light covers or anything.
Front bumper and valance are shot.
Battery box cover is a gonner.
The clutch is almost non existant and the engine will only stay running after warming for about 20 min..

Anyone have any suggestions on the lights?
What about a heater core to get the air to blow in the cabin?


       
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Fd3BOOST


Hauling
Posts: 114
posted December 21, 2003 06:41 PM
Edited By: Fd3BOOST on 21 Dec 2003 18:42






       
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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted December 21, 2003 07:10 PM

Hey congrats! She doesn't look THAT bad ;) About like mine if it hadn't been caked with body filler and black krylon.



quote:
Next, Rust, rust and more rust. This truck has rust on just about every panel. The tailgate is a lost cause. I need new rocker panels. I think I can salvage the rest.


I dunno, the tailgate doesn't that bad really. Its all flat sheetmetal at least. When you get a chance take some better pics of just the bed.

quote:
Not missing any light covers or anything.


w00t! Hey look at it this way, all the really spendy stuff to replace is still there! You've read the recent threads on taillights and beauty rings.

Your grill and bezels are looking good too!

Should be a lot of work, but you've got something good to start with at least :)

Good luck man.



____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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Fd3BOOST


Hauling
Posts: 114
posted December 21, 2003 07:20 PM

Well your right.For the most part I have all the little shit.

The bed is covered in surface rust.
The tailgate has a hole in it which isnt as noticable in the pic.
All in all its not that bad. But it definitely needs a ton of work.

       
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jfaplanet


Redlining
Posts: 356
posted December 21, 2003 08:27 PM

lights

I had the same problem with my lights when I first got my truck. It turns out the fuse block was so corroded that electricity couldn't pass thru it. I took it off the truck and sandblasted the brass lugs. Bead blasting would be better but I didn't have any at the time. Put it back on and everything worked. Also used new fuses while I had it apart. Be sure to clean the terminals that plug onto the fuse block with some electrical cleaning solvent such as CRC 2-26, you can get it at home depot or lowes, in the electrical supplies area. Looks like the rest of the truck is all there. If you find out how to make replacement rockers let me know. Mine is going to need them too. I've also got to replace some of the floor pan. But I have a 84 B2000 cab that has a good floor that I can cut up. Good luck and hope this helps.

Charles
____________
74 REPU "Red"
74 REPU "Jethro" "TII"
74 RE-Courier vert
79 SA-SE(aka deathtrap)
79 SA-SE-FC (project
turbo)
http://home.bellsouth.net
/p/PWP-crgj
TN Forum:
http://tnrotary.10.forume
r.com/

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brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted December 21, 2003 08:55 PM

it's all restoreable!

Just a lotta work.

Buy a few gallons of POR-15's Metal Ready rust neutralizer or equivalent to start off with. I went thru about 11 gallons @ 35.00/each with shipping and tax.

Charles already hit on the lights issue. I used my drill with wire wheel and a can of brake cleaner to clean up my fusebox. Check connections @ the box, redo if needed. There is a diagram in the Gallery here of the electrical system; pretty basic.


____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted December 21, 2003 10:33 PM

Don't be bummed!

How much did you have to give for her? You got an intact dash center section!!! Whaddaya mean, no radio? Who cares if it doesn't currently work--that's the factory stocker! And that driver's side front turn lens--it's intact, and those are no longer available... You even got wheel trim rings... outtasight!
Personally, I'd concern myself with the engine's health first.
All in all, a decent starting point!
Beware replacing the 50 Amp fuse with a non-fuse: it's there for a reason, and the next thing to go is___.
Using the electrical contact cleaner on all connections, beyond just the fuse block, might be in order... Remember, too, the importance of good, clean grounds all 'round!
I can't wait to see what she'll look like when you get done, if your 7 is any example of how far you'll go.
So, you desire an alternate bed to go on her?

       
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Fd3BOOST


Hauling
Posts: 114
posted December 22, 2003 05:30 AM

quote:
How much did you have to give for her? You got an intact dash center section!!! Whaddaya mean, no radio? Who cares if it doesn't currently work--that's the factory stocker! And that driver's side front turn lens--it's intact, and those are no longer available... You even got wheel trim rings... outtasight!
Personally, I'd concern myself with the engine's health first.
All in all, a decent starting point!
Beware replacing the 50 Amp fuse with a non-fuse: it's there for a reason, and the next thing to go is___.
Using the electrical contact cleaner on all connections, beyond just the fuse block, might be in order... Remember, too, the importance of good, clean grounds all 'round!
I can't wait to see what she'll look like when you get done, if your 7 is any example of how far you'll go.
So, you desire an alternate bed to go on her?


Dont get me wrong. I aint bitchin, just describing the condition. I dont listen to the radio in my Fd either.
First off what will blow by me not using a main fuse?
Also can I get that fuse at my local auto parts?
I am not terribly worried about the engine since I am yanking the 12a out in favor of a 13b. I do however have a full gasket and seal set to rebuild the 12a. Including new oil control rings, inner and outers :)
And you hit the nail on the head when you mentioned my Fd.
That is the sort of vehicle condition I am used to and I will get this truck the same. I AM SERIOUS. :)
So it will just take me a while to get a game plan and figure out where to get my supplies, parts yada yada.
I am not used to parts being in such short supply which makes it tricky but I will prevail...W3rd.

Here is the good part I only gave $250 for the truck.
Thats right ladies :)
Anyhow, jokes aside.
Could someone help me find the fuse i need and possibly a workshop manual.
Thanks

Dave

       
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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted December 22, 2003 06:54 AM

quote:
First off what will blow by me not using a main fuse?


The fuses are there to keep more expensive things from blowing up, and/or wires overloading and catching fire.

Believe me, your interior is very slavageable, you don't want to have to cope with a fire in your cab.


quote:
Here is the good part I only gave $250 for the truck.

Could someone help me find the fuse i need and possibly a workshop manual.



I think I can beat you on that one. I paid $200 for mine :)

I've been promising and promising to scan in my wiring diagramme ('77) and shop manual ('76) but I really will try to get it done over the holiday. That shop manual is so damned big its a real bear to scan and sort and convert to PDF, but I'll try to get that up for you for the new year if you don't mind waiting.


____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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Tom93R1


Redlining
Posts: 458
posted December 22, 2003 07:30 AM

Looks like you have a good project ahead of you!


quote:
Just a lotta work.

Buy a few gallons of POR-15's Metal Ready rust neutralizer or equivalent to start off with. I went thru about 11 gallons @ 35.00/each with shipping and tax.





Can you elaborate on this? What is this neutralizer, do you just paint it on the rust? Do you sand first then paint it on?
____________


'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!

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nwaco


Redlining
Posts: 407
posted December 22, 2003 08:58 AM

Whoa..Nellie......

Throttle back on the POR-15 as an initial plan. Guys, we have covered this many times. Take it a step at a time, make a plan, clean first. That means vacuum, wire brush, media blast, whatever, to remove loose scale. Evaluate condition, and then pause to reconfirm action plan.
Converting rust prematurly will mask problems if you are not thourall in your removal.

I don't care how good you are, these truck do not restore in weeks, it will be months at best for a good job. With rare parts and serious metal reconditioning, it is more of a game of chess than anything. You must have strategy, and patience to get through.

Please reveiw some earlier threads on rust and conversion..

As for the fuses, good luck on finind one, they are one of the many NLA parts. As for the headlights, check the fusible link on the inside left fender you can make a new one of those with modern parts. I myself would fab up a bypass through a modern fuse until I established the cause because if you should find a rare blade fuse, last thing you want to do is blow that one.





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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted December 22, 2003 09:10 AM

quote:
That means vacuum, wire brush, media blast, whatever, to remove loose scale. Evaluate condition, and then pause to reconfirm action plan.


I'll second this. I was taking this cautious approach because I thought it made good sense. Then lo-and-behold... in many, many places, after I mechanically removed loose scale and body filler I discovered sheetmetal that needed MUCH more serious work than just conditioning/conversion.

Keep brushing/sanding/grining till you see shiny metal. If that leaves a hole in the panel, then its better that you find it now than when it bubbled up through an expensive paintjob in six months.


quote:
As for the fuses, good luck on finind one, they are one of the many NLA parts.


50A blade fuses are pretty common and relatively cheap.

And since you aren't 'restoring' it, any 50A fuseable link from radio shack would suffice.


____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted December 22, 2003 09:33 AM

quote:
quote:
That means vacuum, wire brush, media blast, whatever, to remove loose scale. Evaluate condition, and then pause to reconfirm action plan.


I'll second this. I was taking this cautious approach anyway because I think it makes good sense. And lo-and-behold... in many, many places, after I mechanically removed loose scale and body filler I discovered sheetmetal that needed MUCH more serious work than just conditioning/conversion.

Keep brushing/sanding/grining till you see shiny metal. If that leaves a hole in the panel, then its better that you find it now than when it bubbled up through an expensive paintjob in six months.


quote:
As for the fuses, good luck on finind one, they are one of the many NLA parts.


50A blade fuses are pretty common and relatively cheap.

And since you aren't 'restoring' it, any 50A fuseable link from radio shack would suffice.



____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

        Click here to visit rotormunky's homepage. 
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Fd3BOOST


Hauling
Posts: 114
posted December 22, 2003 12:11 PM

Thanks Martin, I will hit up radio shack for that fuse.
Dont worry people. I will be cleaning off all the rust before I use any chemicals. OK?
lol

       
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted December 22, 2003 12:19 PM

Forgot you had the 12A...(lol)!

BTW, don't surrender any personal info.--such as your SS#--to Radio Schlock, unless you really want to... They've been known to ask for it, for their 'marketing' purposes...
I refuse to comply. It's none of their damn business, and I get a flood of junkmail already... that kind of BS just makes me less their customer!
Higher quality from your electronics speciality supplier anyway.

       
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brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted December 22, 2003 12:45 PM

POR-15 is a rust neutralizer.
http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=177

METAL-READY®

METAL-READY™ provides the best adhesion for POR-15® on any surface, including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces. Our simple process gently etches metal, creating an ideal anchor pattern for coatings such as POR-15®, while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel. Avoid other preps that may leave harmful residues which prevent proper adhesion.


After thoroughly degreasing your work piece, apply environmentally safe METAL-READY® to both neutralize any rust and etch any clean bare metal. This will allow better adhesion of POR-15® or any other paint. METAL-READY® is not caustic, corrosive, toxic or flammable.

-------------------------------------------------------

I have had very good results by prepping the metal with my black and decker 4.5" angle grinder. With knot wire wheel and 10,000rpms it tears rust scale off in no time. Keep wire wheeling the same spot for a few seconds more and you now have bare, shiny metal. Spray with Metal Ready and wipe off the rust/metal dust. Spray again with Metal Ready and let it sit anywhere from 15 minutes to 12 hours. Keep spraying every 1/2 hour or so; you want to keep it wet.

What's left of rust turns into a grey paste. Wipe the grey paste off and spray more Metal Ready.

Clean with Lacquor Thinner. Dry. Wipe with a tack cloth and it's ready for primer.

I did my whole truck like this. In several spots I grinded the primer off to see how it looked underneath. Shiny and rust free every time.

Dropped REPU off @ the paint shop this morning.

Brad


quote:
Looks like you have a good project ahead of you!


quote:
Just a lotta work.

Buy a few gallons of POR-15's Metal Ready rust neutralizer or equivalent to start off with. I went thru about 11 gallons @ 35.00/each with shipping and tax.





Can you elaborate on this? What is this neutralizer, do you just paint it on the rust? Do you sand first then paint it on?

____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted December 22, 2003 01:03 PM

Why, or why not,

...is this stuff preferable/superior to 'Oshpho', or any other version of phosphoric acid 'rust converter'? Or did I miss something back there you or Ken already said about this?

       
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brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted December 22, 2003 03:15 PM

Oshpho

Never used it.

Metal Ready did the job.


____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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Fd3BOOST


Hauling
Posts: 114
posted December 22, 2003 07:46 PM

quote:
BTW, don't surrender any personal info.--such as your SS#--to Radio Schlock, unless you really want to... They've been known to ask for it, for their 'marketing' purposes...
I refuse to comply. It's none of their damn business, and I get a flood of junkmail already... that kind of BS just makes me less their customer!
Higher quality from your electronics speciality supplier anyway.


On the east coast they ask you for your phone number at just about every store you go into.
I love the look i get when I say 301-555-1234

       
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Fd3BOOST


Hauling
Posts: 114
posted December 22, 2003 07:57 PM
Edited By: Fd3BOOST on 22 Dec 2003 19:59

Charles, thanks for the tip on the light.
You had it nailed. I clean the connections at the fuse block and viola.
Klaus, I found out that with that wire in the place ofthe fuse the battery was running juice without having the key in the ignition.
I found a comprable 55amp blade fuse at Track Auto for $1.00

Ok other thing I made my mind up that Carborated 12A's suck ass.
Not to offend anyone as I am spoiled having owned three 3rd gen rx7s.
I dont know much about carborators, distributer caps or 12a's

I couldnt get this truck fired up today to save my life.
Battery kept dying down. I flooded it once. Pulled the plugs cleared it out and again it wouldnt fire up. It acted like it wanted to but just wouldnt. I assume that the plugs suck and should be replaced, maybe the distributer cap blows.
I could try to nurse this thing back to health but why? Who ever put this 12a in here and took out the 13b was on crack.
I might have a hook up on a complete Turbo II set up. Engine, trans, ECU, harness the whole nine.
I hope. Its either that or I am going to go with what I know and am familiar with the 13b-rew TT cause this little dinky N/A 12a just isnt gonna cut the mustard.




       
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