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Thread: Radiators
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bliffle
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted May 05, 2004 10:59 AM |
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Radiators
Radiator went out on my 74 REPU. The shop is soldering the lower seams back together. Any idea where I can get an aftermarket (or whatever) radiator? SF area, internet?
B
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bliffle
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted May 05, 2004 07:43 PM |
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I netted to www.radiator.com, and within a few minutes I had a quote for $109 delivered, as well as an $89 reference to the garage where I actually had the truck. Good deal!
B
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Hunter
Hauling
Posts: 178
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posted May 06, 2004 09:24 AM |
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radiators.com
Better be careful here.
I just called to double check and they do NOT have a listing for the REPU.
Only have listing for 74-77 Mazda truck
The core is the right height 13" but is way short on the width 19" (mine is about 24").
IMHO you will be receiving a smaller radiator for the B2000 or something like that. Hose connections may be in the wrong place as well. Radiator.com would NOT send me a diagram. Lame.
They just want your money.
BT
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Bruce Toski
Mazda Certifications, Master ASE Certification - Former Auto Vo-Tech instructor, A+ Computer Certified
(Former owner of R100, RX-3, RX-2, RX-4, Cosmo, NSU RO80 engine, Sachs Wankel chainsaw, Sach Motocross prototype motorcycle, Graupner radio control airplane engine,84 RX-7 SE, Hercules W2000 Wankel motorcycle, Suzuki RE-5 Wankel motorcycle)
(Have left: 1974 Mazda REPU, OMC snowmobile wankel engine, SAVKEL wankel ultralight engine)
Also own a 1972 and 73 Audi 100LS, 1991 Audi 100 and a 1986 Audi 5000S. Wife owns a 93 Toyota Celica
2361 SW 36th Terrace
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312-4291
954 583-4191
chk my auctions:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=btoski
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bliffle
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted May 06, 2004 10:44 AM |
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Thanks for the info. I had the rad shop re-solder it: $125, which is OK with me. Haven't got the mechanics bill yet.
B
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted May 06, 2004 12:16 PM |
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A while back...
...one of our fellow r'heads was offering NOS factory REPU radiators on ebaymotors for a $300 opening bid...
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rotormunky
Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
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posted May 06, 2004 12:29 PM |
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Shit, I can have one made for less than what that guy wanted. Don't get me wrong, its worth it if you're really restoring the vehicle, but I can get an all-aluminum unit and fabbt he brackets for that kind of money.
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-Martin
Orlando, Florida
http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU
'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted May 06, 2004 12:32 PM |
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Ah, yes...
Agreed, the price of NOS restoration/factory stock will continue to be inflated at a rate exceeding that of the custom-fab build. The price of aging rarities...
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bliffle
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted May 06, 2004 04:21 PM |
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So my $125 re-solder looks pretty good. The mechanic also put in a new T'stat, after market type, but I knoow the RX7 guys all say to use the OEM tstat.
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kansei
Redlining
Wankelized
Posts: 423
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posted May 06, 2004 08:12 PM |
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Well.....
I know there's plenty of you out there that have been in it longer than I, but from an "RX-7 Guy" of 13 years, an aftermarket thermostat is okay, unless it is not for factory temp setting and/or does not have the relief (aka "jiggle") pin. Maybe the old school vehicles would be okay with a non-factory style thermostat, but it is true, the 7s don't care for them much (at least none of them that I have tried the aftermarket ones on)...
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Neal A.E. Swigert
Greenville, Michigan
1974 REPU Resto Project
1976 808 Wagon
1977 Cosmo
1978 Savanna RX-7 GT
1980 Leather Sport RX-7
1980 Petty Targa RX-7 #11
1985 GSL-SE RX-7
1988 RX-7 10th Ann
1993 RX-7 VR Touring
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Hunter
Hauling
Posts: 178
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posted May 06, 2004 09:03 PM |
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thermo
Mazda wankel engines require a "bypass" type of thermostat, the use of a non bypass thermo will usually cause an overheating problem because water is continually bypassing the radiator.
Caveat Emptor
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted May 07, 2004 12:52 AM |
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I drilled a tiny hole in the flat part of my 180º thermostat. It's the poor man's version of a jiggle pin.
Oh, I also repaired two REPU radiators that had developed small leaks in the seams where the tanks meet the cores. I have one other rad that has a huge leak 50% around the bottom tank. I'll let a radiator shop deal with it.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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rotormunky
Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
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posted May 07, 2004 04:30 AM |
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quote: I know there's plenty of you out there that have been in it longer than I, but from an "RX-7 Guy" of 13 years, an aftermarket thermostat is okay, unless it is not for factory temp setting and/or does not have the relief (aka "jiggle") pin. Maybe the old school vehicles would be okay with a non-factory style thermostat, but it is true, the 7s don't care for them much (at least none of them that I have tried the aftermarket ones on)...
Just grab a centerpunch and pop a little hole to the top where the checkvalve is on the factory pieces. I've used these in my FC for years and years with nary a problem.
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-Martin
Orlando, Florida
http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU
'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted May 07, 2004 10:43 AM |
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Huh? I just drilled the flat part where a jiggle pin would normally be on an OEM unit.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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rotormunky
Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
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posted May 07, 2004 12:39 PM |
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quote: Huh? I just drilled the flat part where a jiggle pin would normally be on an OEM unit.
I'm not sure if that was for me or not. I wasn't responding directly to your post, I was responding to the first one. Punch/drill. THey work about the same. Depends on what I have laying around. Its cheap tin, I have a spring loaded center punch that pops a nice hole in it without much fuss.
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-Martin
Orlando, Florida
http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU
'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted May 07, 2004 09:57 PM |
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Ah, I thought it was stainless steel.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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